Getting close. Your wife might get jelous of the fine fox in front and the three more in the back, sporting short dresses and spike heeled shoes. ;)
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Getting close. Your wife might get jelous of the fine fox in front and the three more in the back, sporting short dresses and spike heeled shoes. ;)
HUNG! Details to follow.Attachment 14052
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Anybody have a picture where the bottom cowl channel gets modified to make room for the exhaust? I'd like to see an example before I start grinding.
Promise to update tonight.Attachment 14083
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I've seen a couple pacers with a oval hole in the cowl to clear the exhaust :/ always though there should have been a better solution...
Ill dig for photos... Thinking now it might have been with a sutton or sutton clone though...
Rocket
The engine is on. It went easier than I expected. After mounting it I plumbed in the wiring for the CGR-30P, controls, and sarter/alternator cables. I picked up some sleeving to keep all the wiring clean and neat. The first pic is the old starter cable that's dirty brown. Look how clean and fancy it looks covered up on the sleeve. That's the bundle with all the EGT and CHT wires in it coming out of the firewall in the 2nd picture. Electronics International uses these little wire connectors that use a set screw to hold the wires. Not sure yet if I like them or not.
I pulled bottom plugs and set the mag timing. While the plugs where out I cranked the motor and primed the oil system and promptly discovered I forgot to tighten a fitting for the oil pressure sensor. Fixed that and cleaned the mess and cranked some more and got a cranking oil pressure of 55 psi.
Buttoned up the boot cowl, not really any good pictures...
Did the final fit of the exhaust and drilled the pinholes for the exhaust clamps.
I started farting around with the lower cowl but realized I was tired and couldn't wrap my brain around it so I called it a night.
I'm currently sitting looking through the vague drawings (there's no dimensions on 3/4 of them) that came with the stc and pawing through pictures online trying to come up with a game plan for the carb air box.Attachment 14084Attachment 14085Attachment 14086Attachment 14087
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Nice looking install. Glad I am not the only one that forgets to tighten something and makes a mess. The EI connectors have worked well for me. Huge improvement over their old push on connectors.
Honestly if I don't find at least one little thing that was overlooked I get paranoid thinking I haven't found it yet.
So fighting with the cowl...
I did have to trim the baffle for the nose bowl to fit. Took about half an inch off the forward ends and tapered the amount removed to zero heading back and torward the center.
I built a jig to hold the nose in place and tried fit the lower cowl. Couldn't for the life of me figure out why it wouldn't match up properly.
I opened up the hole for the airbox and kept having an issue with the carb heat tube in the back rubbing against the cowl. I got frustrated and notched a big chunk out to the way. Trying to figure out how to resolve this issue without having to have the airbox built into the outlet lip. Or maybe that is the answer..
So. I just referred to the bible (Andy's Pacer Restoration thread) and realized that I do have to build a new cowl. Lower and upper.
This'll be fun.Attachment 14089Attachment 14090Attachment 14091Attachment 14092Attachment 14093
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Looking nice!
see if you can round up some thin lexan .040 ish... Use it to make template and it will save hours of time. Lay it up there and just drill into the screw holes and Cleko in place. Now leave it up there and fab your scoop or whatever. Easy peesy when you can see through it. Ditto top cawl sides, Cleko to hinge and mark with fine sharpy or strips of tape.
Rocket
The one photo i found was a sutton one a pacer 180 hp... its the oval hole just above the guys right hand.
Attachment 14097