Wing tank sump drains that don't leak?

[01Delta]

You may also just have to replace the o-ring on them......

I see o-rings kits, but again, which one.
My dad introduced me to an older grizzly A&P the other day, and plan to have him give me his 2-cents on my plane, and let me know what I have and what I should have. Hopefully he can say what exactly I need for the seals. I just wanted to get something on order.

[Stephen]

Often, I find a piece of dirt, lint or something stuck in the valve O ring. Remove it and all is fine. I keep a supply of O rings from AC Spruce for when I might need one. It is messy to remove the valve and quickly plug the hole while doing this, I always lose a few cups of fuel. Use fuel lube on the threads when reinstalling the quick drain valve. Rarely do I find a need to replace the valve.

The wing valve should be an Air Safe CAV 160 using an M83248-1-006 O Ring for 20 cents. Other valves are likely Curtis valves. Start with Aircraft Spruce to identify the valve. Then go to the manufacture to get the O ring number. They are cheap.

[Steve Pierce]

I merged your thread with another on the subject with some good information. There are two brands common on our airplanes, Curtis and Saf-Air. Like posted earlier the seal in the Curtis are not easy to find. Saf-Air use an o'ring. The wings usually use a 1/4" NPT CAV-160 and the gascolator 1/8" NPT CAV-110. I prefer the Saf-Air because I can easily replace an o'ring.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/...rainvalves.php

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ickkey=3008616

[Glen Geller]

It would be worthwhile to acquire one or two new or reconditioned spare drain valves, and just swap them out when one is leaking.

[rocket]

It would be worthwhile to acquire one or two new or reconditioned spare drain valves, and just swap them out when one is leaking.

I keep a serviceable wing drain in a ziplock bag behind the seat.

When I have a leaker I try get it to clear a couple times and the last one draining a coffee cup full of fuel.


Then I just hot swap them: shirt off, wad of paper towels around my wrist to keep the armpit burn down to a dull roar, have the replacement unit prepped with a little fuel lube or whatever, then just unscrew the leaky one letting it drop on the ground while slipping the other into place.


*** most important to use just enough fuel proof thread sealant and get none near the o-ring or sealing areas. If you do crud will get caught and never clear.


Usually I just clean up the one I removed, open it and jam a small cotter pin into the holes so the o-ring isn't under compression while being stored, place it in bag and store behind seat for next time.


Gascolator QD is different as one can turn off the fuel. Pull the bowl assembly and replace with new or o-ring if that is an option. Use care diddling with the gascolator while reinstalling, I've seen more then a few leakers show up frighteningly miss installed.


Rocket

[Spdcrazy]

Mine leaks, I have searched and see alot of people use saf-air or this CAV-110 but my style of drain is the rod/pin style, not the round disc. I don't mind the disc but would like all drains to match at least. Can someone enlighten me to what part number I need? I see quite a few options with the rod/pin type.

Also, I think it's 1/8npt not 1/4, am I correct in this?

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[SMO22]

If it is the drain under the right seat you will need help or plan on lots of frustration, you will need to get a gascolator gasket as well unless you are lucky enough to turn it out without having to pull the whole bowl out http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/...isquickdv4.php

[Spdcrazy]

You will need help or plan on lots of frustration http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/...isquickdv4.php

Thanks!

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[Spdcrazy]

And yes that is the one. I'll look into the job a bit more but get the drain coming.

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[59pacer]

Possibly another consideration is that the Curtis valves are throw away items, and the Saf-air valves have a replaceable seal costing about 40 cents.