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Thread: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

  1. #1
    McDaver63's Avatar
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    Default Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    I've got all the cowling off my Pacer and I will need to repaint the nose cowl. Since I have to do that I have been thinking about doing the split-able nose cowl mod. I've been trying to search the forum here for some information on the mod. I found a few post that had some pictures and information on where to buy glass and carbon split nose cowls but I couldn't find any info on how to do the mod. Can anybody steer me in the right direction to a thread or post some information on the mod? Also I read that there was an article about the mod in one of the SWPC news issues. I searched through their archives on their website and did not find any info on the mod. Does anybody know what issue that it was in? If anybody has done the mod and has a field approval that would help a lot.

    Thanks

    Dave
    I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Dave, if you look at the SWPC News for Jan,Feb,Mar issue at the top of page 120 in the Classified Adds you will see the add for the Mod.

    Fred Mayes
    Pacer N7478K

  3. #3
    McDaver63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Fred, Thanks. Yes I found the short article about the mod by Bill Havener in that issue as well on page 96. It appears though that his mod is for a fiberglass nose cowl because he shows a fiberglass joiner flange. I might end up just coming up with my own design and use an aluminum flange. I was hoping that someone my have a field approval I could use. Maybe it is just considered a minor alteration and can just have a logbook entry.

    Thanks

    Dave
    I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things

  4. #4
    andya's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    seems like someone in the SWPC posted an article on doing this back in the mid 90s. requires field approval
    "Progress is our most important problem"

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    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    I would cut the nosebowl in half with a thin cut-off wheel, rivet a doubler and nut plates in and take consideration of the spinner location so as not to have any screws behind it. Use AC43.13 as a reference to the repair in your logbook.

  6. #6
    Jim Hann's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Steve, vertical or horizontal?
    1957 PA-22/20 "Super Pacer" based 1H0
    Lifetime EAA member
    Vintage Aircraft Association member
    Lifetime EAA Chapter 32 member


  7. #7
    McDaver63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Steve Thanks, I was hoping that it might be that easy. Now to see if I can cut it nice and straight.
    I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    We got it approved with the STC to install the 0-360 A1P with constant speed prop... Started to do the paperwork to approve it as a stand alone STC but ran into FAA issues... They want it pressure tested along with some other BS... Kind of funny since they had no problem with it done on the engine modification...

    It is a metal bowl, riveted on flanges with #6 screws and small hinges near the spinner location... Will have to find the pictures and post them up..

    Brian


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    McDaver63's Avatar
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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Brian,

    That would be great to see some pictures. I Googled a picture of I believe a Super Cub nose bowl with a split cowl design similar to what you guys designed with 2 hinge halves and a removable hinge pin on the inside at the spinner sections. Might have been your design.
    I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Split Nose Cowl Mod?

    Found this composite picture on the computer...



    This is what I have written up to accomplish the mod...

    25. Reference Drawing photo # SA5-PD-09 and modify the nose bowl by first removing the oil cooler chin and making a filler plate from .032 soft aluminum. Contour the filler plate to match nose bowl and rivet in place with flush rivets. The starter hole cutout can be flush plated closed since starter will no longer protrude. Finish can be with standard plastic fillers. Split the nose bowl at the horizontal midpoint with a thin dremel tool cutter. Fabricate inside doublers from .032 5052-0 contoured to fit outside lower cowl lips and rivet in place with flush rivets. These doublers must protrude about one inch above the lip for installation of nutplates for the top cowl to connect with screws. On the inside lips rivet in place a section of aluminum hinge on both cowl sections. The hinge pin is replaced with a longer piece bent to lock on a steel catch riveted on the lower cowl. Insert and rivet in place a steel strip on the lower cowl trailing edge reinforcing bead. This strip must protrude minimum of ¾ inch to insert into reinforcing bead of top cowl to lock in bead. Reference Drawing # SA5-09 for fabricated parts drawings. The nose bowl is locked together with the bead strips, hinge pins, and three 6-32 screws on each outside flange.

    Another Note...

    The directions are for modifying the nose bowl to work with our STC engine conversion... The engine cowling winds up being almost 2 inches longer to meet the back of the constant speed prop, therefore we closed off the oil cooler and starter because of that... On a standard installation the oil cooler and starter hole can be left in place.

    Brian


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    Last edited by stevesaircraft(Bri); 04-28-2016 at 03:03 PM.

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