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Dry engine
My pacer has not had the engine started for the better part of a year. Is there a good way to prelube besides just cranking away on that first start ?
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Re: Dry engine
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
cozzmo81
Well FWIW. I have had a few engines set for awhile during restoring the plane.
All I have ever done was to take out the top plugs and turn the engine over until I get oil pressure. Once I get oil pressure stop long enough to let the starter cool and crank some more.
Not going to hurt a thing. I all so do the same with a new built engine.
Oh yea my neighbor did the same with a Wright J-4 that sat for 30-40 years before he flew the Laird.
Just my 3 cents worth.
Jim
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
wyandot jim
Well FWIW. I have had a few engines set for awhile during restoring the plane.
All I have ever done was to take out the top plugs and turn the engine over until I get oil pressure. Once I get oil pressure stop long enough to let the starter cool and crank some more.
Not going to hurt a thing. I all so do the same with a new built engine.
Oh yea my neighbor did the same with a Wright J-4 that sat for 30-40 years before he flew the Laird.
Just my 3 cents worth.
Jim
I do the same except I also squirt oil into the cylinders.
"You can only tie the record for flying low."
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
Stephen
I do the same except I also squirt oil into the cylinders.
Thanks for the good info. I was wondering if the oil makes it all the way up to the camshaft when the oil pressure starts to read 20 or 30 psi .
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
MWflyer
Thanks for the good info. I was wondering if the oil makes it all the way up to the camshaft when the oil pressure starts to read 20 or 30 psi .
Any oil pressure when hand cranking means oil is getting to the bearing. Just make sure that it comes up to normal pressure once you start the engine.
"You can only tie the record for flying low."
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Re: Dry engine
I think the most important thing to do when you start a lycoming engine that hasn't been run in a while, is to bring the RPM's up to 1000-1200 right away, so the crank is doing a good job of slinging oil up to the camshaft. There's a good chance the cam is pretty dry if it sat for any length of time.
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Re: Dry engine
Cam guard is an excellent additive especially the formula for long term storage. I used it in my c-140, after 9 months it had zero surface rust in the cylinders, started up fourth blade, pressure up in seconds.
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
Pacerfgoe
I think the most important thing to do when you start a lycoming engine that hasn't been run in a while, is to bring the RPM's up to 1000-1200 right away, so the crank is doing a good job of slinging oil up to the camshaft. There's a good chance the cam is pretty dry if it sat for any length of time.
I go even higher; 1700 rpm or so. The contact load between the cam lobes and the tappet faces is highest at idle and goes down as speed increases (opposite of what you'd think). So going to a higher speed minimizes the chance of cam/tappet damage. Of course you don't want to use too much throttle too soon before the engine has warmed up evenly. IIRC 1700 is what they use at the factory.
Tim
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Re: Dry engine
Originally Posted by
bluejeepdad
I go even higher; 1700 rpm or so. The contact load between the cam lobes and the tappet faces is highest at idle and goes down as speed increases (opposite of what you'd think). So going to a higher speed minimizes the chance of cam/tappet damage. Of course you don't want to use too much throttle too soon before the engine has warmed up evenly. IIRC 1700 is what they use at the factory.
Tim
Yikes I have aeroshell 100 in it,I think that is thicker oil, so maybe drain it and put warm 15 /50 in -is that the only way the cam gets oiled in an O-290d is oil being splashed on it?
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