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Thread: Installing RV engine baffles

  1. #1
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Installing RV engine baffles

    Here are some details on using the RV engine baffles on an 0-320 Pacer.

    Establishing the location for the rear baffles was baffleing.... I ended up cutting out big chuncks of the baffle and mounting it in the curved part of the engine. I kept the baffle about 1/16" away from the engine and will silicone the gap.
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    Last edited by Stephen; 11-29-2017 at 06:35 PM.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  2. #2
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I used .040 6061 for the rear reinforment for the oil cooler.
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    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Other than better cooling is there any additional speed component??

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Other than cooling are there any speed benefits???

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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I would move that cooler aft about an inch. We used Van's baffles on my Dad's Clipper when we got the field approval for the O-320 installation. An old friend of mine told me to move that cooler back and he was right. We had a higher oil temp than we liked and moving it back rectified it. I used a piece of 4130 from the head of the cylinder 90 degrees to mount the cooler to just like a Grumman Tiger and it has not cracked in all these years.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by robertsailor View Post
    Other than cooling are there any speed benefits???
    No speed benefits. I am hoping this may lower my CHT a little. My oil temperatures are already too low.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  7. #7
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I would move that cooler aft about an inch. We used Van's baffles on my Dad's Clipper when we got the field approval for the O-320 installation. An old friend of mine told me to move that cooler back and he was right. We had a higher oil temp than we liked and moving it back rectified it. I used a piece of 4130 from the head of the cylinder 90 degrees to mount the cooler to just like a Grumman Tiger and it has not cracked in all these years.
    Thanks Steve, the right side is back about an inch to give clearance for mounting brackets. I can do the same on the left side of the cooler.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Iíd also recommend tilting it back at an angle if you have the room for it.

    The fins of the engine appear to provide less resistance to the airflow so most of the air will choose the fins over the cooler. Mine is mounted really low on the cylinder like yours and I have high OTs.

    I donít have room to set mine back or even angle it back, so my next plan is to build a little metal plate that will physically separate the cooler from the fins (all the way across the left rear baffle jiggle to keep air from spilling around it. Kind of like a mini rear baffle on #4. Been swamped at work the last year or so so I havenít gotten around to it.

  9. #9
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Here is what I did for the oil cooler. The white metal is a piece of 4130 bent 90 degrees.
    102-0272_IMG.jpg

    102-274.jpg

  10. #10
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    The original Vans support cracked twice in about 150 hours. After the 4130 bracket was installed I had no more problems.

    The Vans supplied baffle seal went limp at about 500 hours. Replaced it with:https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/pr...seal-material/
    Also put it on CamTom12ís Pacer to cool down his CHT.
    Last edited by Gilbert Pierce; 11-30-2017 at 09:43 AM.

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