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Here are some details on using the RV engine baffles on an 0-320 Pacer.
Establishing the location for the rear baffles was baffleing.... I ended up cutting out big chuncks of the baffle and mounting it in the curved part of the engine. I kept the baffle about 1/16" away from the engine and will silicone the gap.
I would move that cooler aft about an inch. We used Van's baffles on my Dad's Clipper when we got the field approval for the O-320 installation. An old friend of mine told me to move that cooler back and he was right. We had a higher oil temp than we liked and moving it back rectified it. I used a piece of 4130 from the head of the cylinder 90 degrees to mount the cooler to just like a Grumman Tiger and it has not cracked in all these years.
I would move that cooler aft about an inch. We used Van's baffles on my Dad's Clipper when we got the field approval for the O-320 installation. An old friend of mine told me to move that cooler back and he was right. We had a higher oil temp than we liked and moving it back rectified it. I used a piece of 4130 from the head of the cylinder 90 degrees to mount the cooler to just like a Grumman Tiger and it has not cracked in all these years.
Thanks Steve, the right side is back about an inch to give clearance for mounting brackets. I can do the same on the left side of the cooler.
I’d also recommend tilting it back at an angle if you have the room for it.
The fins of the engine appear to provide less resistance to the airflow so most of the air will choose the fins over the cooler. Mine is mounted really low on the cylinder like yours and I have high OTs.
I don’t have room to set mine back or even angle it back, so my next plan is to build a little metal plate that will physically separate the cooler from the fins (all the way across the left rear baffle jiggle to keep air from spilling around it. Kind of like a mini rear baffle on #4. Been swamped at work the last year or so so I haven’t gotten around to it.