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Thread: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

  1. #91
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Nice, is that the stainless or nickel leading edge?

  2. #92
    JPerkins's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Stainless.

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    Jason Perkins

  3. #93
    Pacerfgoe's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Quote Originally Posted by walt.buskey View Post
    OK, now I'm officially jealous!
    Yaa....until you see his visa bill
    Forrest Miller

  4. #94
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    AIN'T THAT THE TRUTH!!

    From my calculations I'll have this overhaul and upgrade paid for about the time its all due again
    Jason Perkins

  5. #95
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Been busy the last few days, last parts finally trickled in. Started assembling.
    But before I got too carried away I realized I needed to install the longer flange bushings for the wood prop. Using a ball fou t press tool and threading a bolt into the bushings I was able to push the old ones out and the new ones in. I was careful to put the oddsized one in the correct hole.
    Threw everything into the case (exactly as the manual states, i.e. marking the front bearing to insure it is in proper) and stuck the case flange bolts in to hold it together.
    Earlier someone commented on painting the cylinder base nuts. Here is how I remedied the paint film thickness that the manual talks about, I sanded the bottom of the nuts where they come in contact with the banana plates.
    Then made some .010" shims from a soda can to place between the base plates and cylinders, and taped them in place. Did the initial torque then removed them before the final pass.
    Afterwards I safetied the nuts and out a light coat of paint to cover up the chips and scratches in the paint from assembly.20180713_174739.jpg20180713_202342.jpg20180713_205638.jpg20180714_085836.jpg20180714_091208.jpg20180714_113026.jpg20180714_183324.jpg

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    Jason Perkins

  6. #96
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Looking good. You really don't need to safety wire the cylinder base nuts. Lycoming did away with it many years ago. Looks good, I be the bottom nuts were not fun.

  7. #97
    efrench's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Getting closer! Won't be long now. Once I got to this stage, engine was complete in just a few hours, then the install took about 4 days to fit the cowl/air scoop, repaint and then kit out the engine. I used my O-320 baffles with slight mods to accommodate the increased width, and the dynafocal mount, but otherwise they fit just fine.


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  8. #98
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Thanks Steve, yes it was a bit of a challenge on the back nuts. I half figured they didn't need safety wire as most of them I've seen don't but...

    I won't be that quick to running. I'll be building new baffles as my old ones where swiss cheese. That and installing the CGR-30P is going to add to it all.

    Anyways.. threw in the gears and tossed the accessory cover and mags on. I'll time them right when the engine is hung.
    Installed the pushrod shroud tubes. They're the old style which uses a different retainer than what they give you in the kit. Luckily the old parts where in good serviceable condition.
    Installed the pushrods and rockers. Bounced around different length rods until every thing was inside the .028" - .080" window, except one. The exhaust on number 3 was way too tight. With the shortest pushrod (three grooves on the end) all I had was .017". I looked to see if something was between the tappet and cam. Then I pulled the plunger out of the tappet and made sure there wasn't any dirt in there. Swapped it with the plunger on the intake and got about .021".
    I called Alaska Aircraft Engines and talked with John. He said it sounds like i checked everything, so send the rocker up and he'll knock off .008" to .010". 20180714_190708.jpg20180715_133931.jpg20180715_161751.jpg20180715_155740.jpg

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    Jason Perkins

  9. #99
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Quick update. Installed inter cylinder baffles. Laid a bead of silicone, let it set up then laid another on top of it and put them on. The hope is that it'll keep things from rubbing and chafing.
    Installed intake tubes. Put form a gasket on one side of the gasket. IA recommended that to me a while back to help prevent the gasket from sucking in.
    Made up the stainless primer lines. Had to oversize the holes in the primer bits to fit over the nipple. Silver soldered the ends on, then used a fine e wire wheel to clean them up before installing.
    Started on the baffling by making a cardboard template from the old pieces, checking fit and trim before cutting out fresh aluminum.20180717_190142.jpg20180717_202317.jpg20180726_110456.jpg20180726_111002.jpg20180726_111842.jpg20180726_113703.jpg20180726_105440.jpg20180720_185301.jpg20180721_105734.jpg

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    Jason Perkins

  10. #100
    JPerkins's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overhaul and upgrade to an O-360

    Last baffle bits to be fabbed where the bolt hole reinforcements. Cut them out with a hole saw, used an old one for a pattern then drilled and trimmed.
    I decided to simply brush a coat of zinc chromate anywhere components would be riveted together. The thought being to help prevent corrosion from water being blown in between the baffle parts.
    Then riveted everything up and gave it a final fitting. I didn't get a picture but where the rod that holds the bottom of the baffle to the cylinder fins I riveted a bit of stainless where the hole in the baffle is at. We'll see if this prevents the rod from chafing through the aluminum.
    Had to botch a bit on the oil cooler to get a comfortable clearance between it and the motor mount. It had only 1/16".
    The hoses for the oil cooler where a bit of a tight fit, but I think I got them routed with minimal stress.
    In the last picture, you can see the oil cooler plenum door and plenum opening. I'm going to hook my cable up so you pull the knob to close the door (increase heat) and push to open (decrease heat). Its opposite what the pictures in the instructions show, but it doesn't state how to do it exactly. On the controls I'll label it Oil Shutter Pull Close.20180727_194658.jpg20180728_085618.jpg20180729_194228.jpg20180729_181516.jpg20180729_194257.jpg20180729_194315.jpg

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    Jason Perkins

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