Removing Williams Toe Brakes From A Clipper

[smcnutt]

Steve excellent thread but attachments on all posts below the first don't show come up when clicked.

They didn't show this morning when I was using the app on my tablet but they are now that I'm on a real computer using firefox.

[Steve Pierce]

I went in and reinstalled the pictures. I have no idea why the first post worked and the rest didn't. All don at the same time on my tablet. Maybe SJ can figure it out. Thanks.

[andya]

thanks Steve, all is working now

[Pacerfgoe]

Gee, I must have the lightweight version of the Williams toe brakes, I was just looking at this this morning while I was amending my weight and balance on the Pacer for new shoulder harnesses....mine only weighed 10 LBS!!!!
I guess the gravity must be different up here

Is that a cigarette lighter socket under the seat....what's that used for??

[Steve Pierce]

Here is what is in the STC. The only thing missing are the brake hose from my weights.

That is a USB plug wired directly to the battery with a fuse inline.
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[Steve Pierce]

Last week I fabricated one brake attachment bracket part #11562 a to go with the one I had in my parts stash and the center rudder bar attach fitting #11799. Cut and fit tube #11567-74 that had been cut out and had a buddy of mine who is a way better welder than me to weld it all in.
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Scuffed the welds and parts with Scotchbrite and primed and painted. Last Saturday morning after being delayed with a stopped up sewer line at the house I finally got back to the Clipper just before lunch. Been 100 plus here but the PortaCool a buddy loaned me works well when you are working in one spot. I decided to splice in a new floorboard section rather than remove it all and fabricate a new one out of .032 aluminum. Luckily I have a Clipper project that I could use as a pattern although I made a poster board template for the brake lines since I am using stainless braided lines instead of the low pressure rubber and copper combination Piper used.
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Ended up running new rudder cables because the cables in the airplane were way to short even with the Williams turnbuckles all the way out. The old wood fair leads were stuck which extended my stay in the belly of the airplane in the sweltering heat. Luckily whoever covered the airplane installed two inspection grommets back in the tail below the rear most rudder fair leads so those got cut out. I pulled the snap ring out of the Electrol brake master cylinders after installing the new brake line and topped them off. The left brake was hard after I put the piston and top back on the cylinder but the right one was a bit spongy. The Eletrol cylinders are hard to het a bleeder hose on with the parking brake lock tabs installed so I hooked up my 5606 hydraulic fluid garden sprayer to the right brake caliper after letting all the air back flow out of the hose and shot fluid to the system till it shot out of the cylinder and into a bucket underneath. Tightened the bleeder fitting and I had rock hard brake on the right. Installed everything for the final time and cotter pinned it all. Was late Sunday when I quit and I was hot and worn out as was Paco so I decided to take a last look at it on Monday morning and then test fly it.
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[Steve Pierce]

Looked over everything Monday morning and discovered I had left two cotter pins out of two rudder pulleys in the baggage compartment so pinned those and took her for a spin. It was well worth all the work. Way more leg room, the airplane handles better in my opinion I think because I am using my ankles instead of my knees and ankles. I am very happy and it should pay off in comfort on the way to Oshkosh. Oh, and it lost 12.7 lbs as well.
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[JohnD]

Hi Steve, I need to order new brake master cylinders for my PA16, the ones I have look like the ones you installed but are according to my mechanic worn out and look like someone made repairs on the pistons in them.
I have the Grove disc brakes and wheels. Should I be ordering the Electrol master cylinders (and where do I find them?) or should I be replacing them with something else?

[dgapilot]

Hi Steve, I need to order new brake master cylinders for my PA16, the ones I have look like the ones you installed but are according to my mechanic worn out and look like someone made repairs on the pistons in them.
I have the Grove disc brakes and wheels. Should I be ordering the Electrol master cylinders (and where do I find them?) or should I be replacing them with something else?

Don’t think you will find Electrol master cylinders, I don’t think they’ve been made since the 50s. Likely the Grove 676-10 if your mechanic insists on PMA cylinders, or 676-1 if he is ok with non-PMA parts. If it was me, I would replace both so they are matched.


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[Vagabondblues]

Hi Steve, I need to order new brake master cylinders for my PA16, the ones I have look like the ones you installed but are according to my mechanic worn out and look like someone made repairs on the pistons in them.
I have the Grove disc brakes and wheels. Should I be ordering the Electrol master cylinders (and where do I find them?) or should I be replacing them with something else?

Grove makes the 692-3 that is almost exactly the same as the Electrol. The only differences is the piston rod which is longer. This should prevent the bending of the unsupported Clevis threads like what happens on the Electrol. Grove provided a statement of owner produced parts with the cylinders.