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Thread: Wagabond build

  1. #31

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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    I prefer sticks in tandem or single place aircraft and yokes in side by side.
    I just prefer the throttle in my left hand and stick in the right. I suppose one could sit on the right and then the throttle and stick would be n the correct order.
    Then the pilot's door would be in the right place? We could pretend we were flying a helicopter.

  2. #32
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen View Post
    Your plane. Your choice. Good for you.

    I loved my J3 and it's sticks. I now have sticks in my Pacer and love it. But, I see your point. In my chase I have a left door and my sticks are shorter than the Clipper's, which make easy access for me. If you were climbing over both sticks it might be a bigger challenge. Although, there are some old fart's flying Clippers successfully.
    Keeps you limber.

  3. #33
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Quote Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
    I prefer sticks in tandem or single place aircraft and yokes in side by side.
    I just prefer the throttle in my left hand and stick in the right. I suppose one could sit on the right and then the throttle and stick would be n the correct order.
    Then the pilot's door would be in the right place? We could pretend we were flying a helicopter.
    I learned to fly in a Clipper with sticks, right throttle and toe brakes. Started flying a 90 hp Super Cub and didn't find the transition to left throttle and heel brakes much to get use to. I go back and forth a lot now. Never really liked the yokes in the Pacer except it was easier to get in and out.

  4. #34
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Switching the stick from right to left hand took about 10 seconds for me to get used to. I got serious about getting rid of my yokes (which were rams horn style) when I had a 6' 9", 300 pounds passenger and he could not get his legs out of the way of the yoke which effected aileron roll during landing.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  5. #35

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    North Ridgeville Ohio
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    I love the sticks and throttle on the left side in my sport trainer too. but when I sit side by side I like yokes, like I had in my Cessna 140. That's why I love building these small airplanes, you can make them custom from scratch.

  6. #36

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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    I got some more small engine parts cleaned, primed, and painted (Oil screen housings, lifting eyes, engine mount washers, mag riser, case plugs, and a few smaller pieces). I also got the seat bottoms and backs cleaned, blasted, and painted. I also got some wheels cleaned up and painted. I decided to use the wagabond ailerons with no flaps. I cleaned and epoxy primed all the pieces for the left aileron and will start assembling sometime this coming week. The SWPC drawings have helped alot when it comes to details that the wagabond plans leave out.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #37

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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    I started off the left aileron by drilling the hinge locations on the spar. I then drilled and riveted the ribs onto the spar. I made the 4 leading edge skins with the nose bulkheads riveted in to their locations. I then placed the spar with the ribs and trailing edge into the jib and drilled the leading edge skins to the spar so the aileron would be square. It is alot of drilling, deburing, cleaning and riveting. I have the two center leading edges, hinges, and center gussets attached now. I will have to finish up the 2 outter leading edges some time soon.
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  8. #38
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Nice work. Do the Wagabond plans call for any twist in the ailerons? Are these parts from Wag Aero?

  9. #39
    Wag-builder's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Looks like your moving along pretty well, but you are using the Colt control system and the Cub/ Vag a bond control horn on your aileron. You might want to make sure you are getting the correct travels before you get too far along. They are different. Yes, there should be about 3/8” of twist to the aileron.

  10. #40

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    Default Re: Wagabond build

    Thanks for the compliment. Yes, these are the wag aero aileron kits. The wagabond plans do not show the aileron twist or don't give the rivet sizes for the various location, even though they included all the rivets and screws in the kit. I am using the short wing piper drawing CD too, those plans show the wash on the aileron as 3/8 inch at tip, this matches the wing washout, which I added when I jigged the aileron up and then I drilled the holes for the leading edge skin to spar, which will hold this washout. As far as the control horn goes, I am using the wagabond wing, which is a vagabond wing, long aileron. The vagabond control travel is 17 degrees with long aileron and the colt wing with short aileron control throw is 15 degrees, up and down. I am using control yokes and want a little bigger fuse than vagabond. That is why I am going to build the colt fuse, also the colt fuse is set up for elevator jackscrew, where the vagabond fuse is set up for trim tab on elevator. I prefer the jackscrew, however to use the jackscrew in the vagabond fuse you have to change the fuse angle at tail to get the elevator angle correct. There is a article out on the web called Super 17, which a guy put a jackscrew on wagabond kit and had to change the fuse angle. Looks like alot of work. I am going to run the aileron cables out the fuse bottom and along the struts at the same location on the vagabond, so the aileron horn I am using will work, also as piper designed the long aileron has more travel 17 degrees compared to the colt aileron short one of 15 degrees. And if you have flown in a vagabond you know that long aileron and short wing is very responsive. Thanks for the responses.

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