PA20 restoration/modification

[Glen Geller]

I attaches to the outer flap hanger inside your wing to route the aileron cables.

Brian.

Would there be split fairleads in those tubes to protect the cables from chafing?

GG

[SeanM]

Probably, the tube looks the same size as the ones on the airframe.

[Jim]

Hi,

When they get on their wheels, and the engine hung, the frames can easily change shape around the doors. If you can hang some weight up front you may save some later aggravations.

[Gilbert Pierce]

I made a new rear door skin, hung the engine, made a new rear door skin.

[JPerkins]

Would there be split fairleads in those tubes to protect the cables from chafing?

GG

Yep. Same as the ones the tail for the rudder cables.

[Steve Pierce]

I made a new rear door skin, hung the engine, made a new rear door skin.

Made a whole new door and had to cut it apart and tweak it. Remember that lesson well as I had tightened up the clearance between the fuselage and the door.

[MrBill]

Didn't that happen to a guy in Platinum, AK? One of the more recent builds. Poor feller.

[PACERGUY]

Yep, what the other guys said!! Before you do much else hang the engine and motor mount to make sure that door fits. It looks tight already so good chance it won't. Motor mount and a box of sand bags/weights will do also. I did a 3 part boot cowl on my cub while Engine was getting a new cam. I was real happy with it until I put the engine back on and none of the holes on the bottom lined up. DENNY

[RickF]

I had a similar problem with the windshield lining up with the leading edge of the wings when I put them on.
The windshield stuck out too far in front of the wings so I had to remove it and trim it to fit.
Take away is to have the wings on and fit the windshield to them.

Rick

[SeanM]

I had planned to simulate engine weight and put the gear back on before I skinned the doors. I installed the new firewall, engine mount, and engine case. Then I added weight to get the total to 310lbs (dry weight of the O-320 is listed as 268 The doors open and close ok. Looks like the front gap opened up maybe 1/16". I built in some adjustability in the door hinges. I am also wondering if a byproduct of replacing pretty mush all of the tubing in those areas with 4130 has stiffened up the door openings. Plus, I went a bit overboard on the attachment of the door formers... I also finished up the door lift struts. I think if I designed the doors, I would have done a self locking support rod system instead. weight1.jpegdoor1.jpeg