Fabric Repair Painted per Randolph System

[azevedoflyer]

Y'All,
Had to cut the tailcone fabric in order to check the rudder tailpost. This was done because a borescope check pointed to an area of "rust". I can not live in doubt (is it? Or is it not?), so surgery was deemed necessary. It turned out to be an overspray of red paint (Randolph's Tennessee red), nothing else. Now I have to cover back the opened area. All the steps and chemicals necessary are clear to me except the butyrate silver coating. Instructions say that Rand-O-Fill (G6303) is already pre-mixed but it states next that ROF "...is mixed one-to-one with #9703 Butyrate thinner and applied by spray gun". That got me confused...
Am I to understand that this dilution is mandatory, as well as the use of a spray gun? Could I use a brush instead?
Somebody please share with me their recommendations?
Thanks,
azevedoflyer
N8714D

[JPerkins]

You can get away without thinning it and brushing it on. Harder to get an even layer on that way.
Use a strong light and pop you head inside while someone is shining the light against your patch job. If you see light shining through the fabric, put another coat of silver on.

The reducers/thinners are to get the viscosity to a sprayable consistency. They don’t add anything to the finished product.

[sierrasplitter]

When they say pre mixed they are talking about the silver aluminum powder is pre mixed into the can . I believe back in the day you had to add silver powder before spraying
But yes , you can thin it

[tnowak]

As previously, mentioned, for large recover jobs you would thin the Rand o Fill for spraying purposes.
Also, a good idea to thoroughly mix the ROF in the (new) can before use as the aluminium powder tends to migrate to the bottom of the can over time...
Brushing ROF works very well for small repair jobs....
TonyN

[Jim Hann]

I just did the full 13 coats on my tail post repair. Horrible color match but it’s airworthy. What is written above is exactly correct, the aluminum is pre-mixed, but you thin it to spray. Follow the manual and you’ll do fine!

PM me if you want to discuss it.
Jim

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Wear your breathing protection!
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[smcnutt]

Never done any fabric repair before. However my brother and I are in the middle of repairing a couple of torn inspection grommets. We are using the polyfibre system because my brother had access to borrow the supplies from a friend.

Personally I find it a real PIA and we're just getting the new ring patched in. Hearing all of the talk on here about the Stewart's System, I'm kind of wishing we went that route. Would that be the general consensus system for a newbie?

[Old3pacer]

My situation is opposite yours - I have a minor repair and am familiar with polyfiber.
Have decided to try Stewarts.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either one. Careful following of instructions is KEY.
We shall see how it all turns out.
AL

[N2709P]

Consolidated’s Super seam cement should stick down the rings quite nicely. I put a fabric ring over the plastic ring to really make it stick. With the Poly system, it is easy to match and fill the repair. Each layer of dope will “melt” into the previous layers making a reliable bond. The Stewart system is a water borne product and will require a mechanical bond (sanding) to make each layer attach to the previous. There is also the possibility of violating the Consolidated STC by top coating with Stewart’s.
Stewart’s is the old Blue River process. Have you noticed the cars from the 80’s and 90’s driving around with all of the water borne paint peeling? Enough said.
N2709P

[Steve Pierce]

I have not had any adhesion issues when using Stewart glue over other systems. Granted I didn't try to glue over peeling paint or fabric. The repairs to Blue River that I know of using Stewarts involved removing the entire finish. That was the problem with Blue River that I have seen is that it alligator skinned, small cracks all over. No other process would stick to the fabric besides Stewarts.

[Steve Pierce]

Have you noticed the cars from the 80’s and 90’s driving around with all of the water borne paint peeling? Enough said.
N2709P

I didn't realize cars were painted with water borne paint in the 80s and 90s. I thought that was a more modern environmental thing. I know our local body shop went to it a few years ago.