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Hi Joe, I finally remembered to boot up the old PC and find those files for the Bungee Boss.
The hardest part (assuming welding is a skill you already possess) is finding a suitable mechanical jack like that shown in the photos and drawing.
We used one from an old Toyota pickup.
Ours works great and really reduces the risk up injury; we have five Tri-Pacers and two Pacers in our group so this thing gets dusted off every year!
Here's a video of someone using one, using a good cordless drill makes it really easy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgL5JGSy748
I would suggest you clamp it in a vise on a really solid table, not your wife's card table!
I like how the owner cleaned up and painted the hydrosorb before installing the rings.
Be sure to arrange the rings on the tool so the threads that wrap the joint are in the middle of a straight area, not over the ears.
Best of luck,
Glen in Oregon
Last edited by Glen Geller; 10-03-2018 at 12:19 AM.
That's pretty clever, and if you don't have one lying around, those jacks are cheap at Harbor Freight.
A good powerful cordless drill and you're off to the races.
GG
That's pretty clever, and if you don't have one lying around, those jacks are cheap at Harbor Freight.
A good powerful cordless drill and you're off to the races.
GG
Glen, that’s exactly right. I chucked my 18V Milwaukee cordless drill on the end and it was a pitiful cake. Took about 10 minutes to do both hydrosorbs.
Stretching the cord scares me.
The Piper bungee installed stretches the cord as it is wrapped around the end of the hydrosorb unit.
Either way you have to have a good solid vise to clamp the system.
The CD drawings show a print for the jig to install the cords.
No more welding than the system with a jack, but a still some fabrication.
Either way there is still the issue of moving the cord from the installer to the horns on the Hydrosorb.
Stretching the cord scares me.
The Piper bungee installed stretches the cord as it is wrapped around the end of the hydrosorb unit.
Either way you have to have a good solid vise to clamp the system.
The CD drawings show a print for the jig to install the cords.
No more welding than the system with a jack, but a still some fabrication.
Either way there is still the issue of moving the cord from the installer to the horns on the Hydrosorb.
The Bungee Buddy (Stewart type) does not require much muscle to stretch the rings, but you must slightly force the rings from the tool onto the ears, usually inducing a twist, and with a definite snap as the pop from tool to hydrosorb.
The Bungee Boss (with jack and swingover lever) require a bit of muscle and a very secure vice/bench/mount, but it's really quite easy and I think safer for fingers. Also it does not twist the rings and the transition from tool to hydrosorb ears is very predictable.
Having replaced shock rings at least a dozen times on various local Tri-Pacers in 15 years, the work done half with Buddy, half with Boss, I found the Boss is faster, easier, and safer for me.
We made ours mostly from scrap materials (our in-house welding guy, so that's forturante!) and a used jack found in a garage. Maybe $100 material if you bought from DIY & Harbor Freight.
Glen, I need your advice. I bought a brand new bungee buddy and new chords and now I’m thinking about how to install them. I have a very nice engine hoist that I can use to lift the front of my plane, at the engine mount at the firewall. I need more specific information about how to lift at the motor mount at the firewall. Does the strap just go under the top mount? Or does it go under the bottom mount? Do you have any pictures? Thanks.
-Subsonic
Was supposed to help the mechanic change our bungy's this morning but was delayed rounding up our 4 sheep for the shearer. Best employees I have.
We finally found a bungy tool at another airfield and another owner went and got this yesterday for us. By the time I got to the mechanic's workshop this morning one set had been done and the other hydro sorb was in 2 pieces on his bench. It fell apart when he cut the old bungy cords. The question is, before we give Univair another involuntary donation of nearly $US500 (including freight) or we get our mits on a second hand one - can these be repaired?
The mechanic who gave us the Bungy tool has an old spare Hydro-sorb that I can pick up tomorrow for the mechanic to check before we use it. Can’t see any way of saving the bungy’s if we put them on and find it is crap later. Have a few other calls out too in NZ.
The other option, as it might just be best to buy new, is we have a few long haul pilots in the group and maybe one of them will be in the States next week and we save a fair bit on the freight. Aircraft is grounded till we sort.