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Thread: Sliding window Channel

  1. #1
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Default Sliding window Channel

    Putting a right side sliding window in the Vagabond. Got the CubCrafters kit for the windows, where do I find the U-channel with the weatherstrip in it? Searched this on SWPC and SuperCub.org and couldn't dig out a name or contact info.
    Dave

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    smcnutt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    I've not bought any but I remember others saying Cub Crafters and/or JC Whitney.
    “Seek advice but use your own common sense.”
    ― Yiddish Proverb

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    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    Couldn't come up with it at JC Whitney, I guess Vera gets the call Monday.
    Dave

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    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    I got the U channel from Cub Crafters.

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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    John,
    You're the man. Now which one do you use? Style no. 11?
    Dave

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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    Dave; I'm gonna fudge out on a direct answer. There are about 62 variables. There is a Q/A section (if you go one layer deeper and click on the p/n for one of the channels listed) that is otherwise about useless, and it says to "contact 'them' at 1-800-603-4383 to order samples". I HIGHLY recommend you go this route.

    A couple "considerations". Your channels are "rigid" and "straight", so you DON'T need "flexible". Flexible works okay, but is exactly that (and requires too many screws to hold it flat). The Vagabonds (and Pacers, Clippers and early Tripes) had a 3-sided steel channel that the fuzzy strip sits down INTO (the converted PA-22s had an L-shaped "shelf" and you can use the wider channel). The "channel" measures 9/16" wide. This can be an issue with "seating" a 9/16" strip into the "groove", and the 9/16" also have a tad loose a grip on the sliders. Too, you get the choice of "beaded" or "unbeaded". Piper used the "unbeaded" and it simply sat flush with the "top" edges of the steel channel. Putting "beaded" in gives you a nifty stainless steel "molding" along the inside and outside edges (I like it, and I use .025 stainless for the window edging. A little Jeweler's Rouge and it will last forever and NOT rust) and twenty years later it still looks new. So, you would want to "specify" the height according to whether you want the bead, or not because you want to have the beading JUST ABOVE the edge of the airframe channel. The 1/2" wide also lends itself better to basically "square-cutting" the ends of the strips and simply laying them in the top and bottom channels "off-center", and as long as they can be. Trying to keep "diagonal cuts" neat is pretty much not a possibility with this stuff. This "offset" works to your advantage since the forward window will be on the OUTSIDE of the inner one (and v-v), So you can work out which way you want to offset the vertical channels to work to your advantage. The vertical strips being offset holds the window edging a little better when fully closed and kills any tendency to rattle. Piper "butt-fitted" theirs, and needed a thumb screw at the top of the channel (for the Pacers, anyway...I don't recall that there was one on the Vagabonds or Clippers; I think you just "lived with the inconvenience"... but hey! the -15 got Piper out of receivership; it wasn't overly "Deluxe", yaknowhatImsayin?) to make them "stay where you put them". Oh, and use #4 machine SCREWS and teeny little ESNA nuts, rather than soft rivets, to attach the edging to the 'glas. MUCH easier if you ever want to replace them. Just put the heads of the screws "facing the other pane" where they overlap (you DO know that there was a piece of FELT cemented to both window panes -right on the contact edge where they slide by each other, right? Like a "wiper". These are ABSOLUTELY necessary or the windows will be "roo-ent" even before you get all the edging mounted! I'm getting more and more sidetracked, but Piper cemented a 3/8 by 3/8 by 2" plexiglas BLOCK onto the inside of the windows to open and close them with. Don't do that. Why Piper never thought of it is beyond me, but one of their nifty "control cable knobs" is IDEAL for a "knob" (I actually prefer an "ivory" one, but black is fine, too. Red can be cool...), and all you need is 2 SS wood washers and a 10-32 machine screw with a plain nut for a jamnut, and a 7/32 hole. Put it about a third of the way UP FROM THE BOTTOM of the pane, and about one inch away from the [closed] edge, and you'll be smiling every time you move a window. Beats the daylights out of that dumb block with the smooched up cement around it!

    So, if your head hurts. just pick out a [approximately] 1/2" wide, 1/2" tall, unbeaded, fuzzy on the bottom as well as the side (rather than teflon/nylon), rigid section (2 each, 6' long) and go for it.

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    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    They will let you order 3 samples at a time. I have two sets of the channels that cub Crafters sold and they measure almost 5/8" and fit tightly in the window channels. I have some 1/2" material I bought from Univair a long time ago and it is a bit loose. I will see how these samples from J.C. Whitney fit and post.

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    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    I got my 3 samples of window channel from JC Whitney. The sliding channels for the Clipper and Super Cub appear to be Style 8, 6ft. A=5/8" B=1/2" C=3/16" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX819740U Each $41.99. It is almost identical to the stuff I got from Cub Crafters for $100. I also ordered Style 10, 6ft. A=5/8" B=9/16" C=3/16" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX184852P Each $28.99 and Style 11, 6ft. A=5/8" B=9/16" C=3/16" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX193469T Each $25.99. Style 10 and 11 have a chrome strip at the edges that I don't care for. Style 8 and 11 has fuzzy stuff on the bottom like the two sides and style 10 just has it on the two sides. I have ordered samples of Style 6, 6ft. A=5/8" B=1/2" C= 3/16" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX193464U Each $24.99, Style 4, 6ft. A=5/8" B=17/32" C=3/16" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX193466R Each $24.99 and Style 14, 6ft. A=5/8" B=9/16" C=7/32" to 1/4" Steel Core Window Channel ZX819741B Each $60.99. I am curious about the differences in style, quality and price. I will post my results and some pictures.


    Thanks John for the link. I went through this several years ago and they didn't have as much information on their site.
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... g=1#review

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    Default Re: Sliding window Channel

    Steve; I'm not sure whether their "samples" include the white strip that replaces the "fuzzy" along the bottom of those channels that don't have it (the fuzzy), but if NOT, what they supply is a thin white "plastic" (I believe it is nylon, teflon, or some other "space-age xxxLON") material that I don't care for, much. When you cut the channel to the length you want, the white strip "falls out" and there is no sign it was ever glued. It gives you "Adgeda", and if you use headliner cement it doesn't stay stuck for long, and tries to escape after the windows are moved a few times. Very Fugly (and exasperating) to deal with. Stick with the "fuzzy bottom" styles, if you can.

    I would have supplied more details when the subject came up originally, but a local "convertible top place" (also purveyors of auto window glass, and windshields) just recently stopped carrying these pieces as a stock part and I have only just recently "depleted my personal stock". I had gotten spoiled by being able to "walk in and lay my hands on it", but those days are gone. Since I haven't had to buy it from JCW for 20 or 30 years now, I couldn't find my notes for which exact p/n was the two types I prefer (from them). Thanks for doing all the legwork!!! I think I might have spent a few hundred dollars on this stuff (even from JCW!) back in the early Seventies, because of the lack of info available on it. Hats off to the Internet, eh???

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