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Thread: Refurbish Aileron/Flap Hinge

  1. #11

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    I had the same problem so machined mine from sintered bronze stock.
    Got that from the local "aviation supplier" (bearing supplier - he knows now NOT to ask me what I am going to use things for )

  2. #12

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    the fabric doctor advertises a kit that is stc'd to fix the problem of worn hinges in flap and aileron hinges. i jhave used these kits in my pa-22jin all of the hinge joints on the wings and they are easy to install and appear after a year to be a good quality fix. he advertises in the short wing piper club magazine. i would give you the address, but i am in the bahamas and do not have the info with me. rlmessenger

  3. #13

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    email address for fabric dr is fabricdoctorLLC@aol.com phone 909-946-1081 or 909-621-2859 in woodstock, ca hope this helps, he is a good guy to work with. rlmessenger

  4. #14
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I used Bob Andrews (the Fabric Doctor) aileron and flap hinge bushings on Cathy's Tri-Pacer. Works great. You drill and ream with tools included and insert a stainless steel flanged bushing which should wear a lot better than the aluminum in the hinge blocks and the steel in the aileron and flaps. Here is a web album of pictures showing the STC'd kit and how to install the bushings which are approved on the hinges on the ailerons and flaps and the hinges coming out of the wings. https://goo.gl/photos/t8owJjeEJoNUuQrg9
    Contact information for the kit.
    Piper Aileron/Flap Hinge Bushing Repair Kit STC SA02128LA
    This is an STC'd/PMA'd repair kit for worn aileron and flap hinges on just about all the fabric Pipers, shortwings
    included. This has been a chronic problem in the past and although any modification or repair to the hinge is
    considered a major repair by the FAA, there has never been any approved data to accomplish such. The repair
    consists of reaming the hinge slightly oversize to accommodate a bushing. An epoxy adhesive is also used to
    insure stability of the bushings. The kit includes Installation instructions, STC approval, Instructions for Continued
    Airworthiness, a custom reamer, two part epoxy adhesive, a mixing pad and utensil, 2 new clevis pins and 4
    bushings to repair two hinges. Additional bushings are available separately @ $4.00 per bushing if needed. Price
    is $139 post paid. Please contact Bob Andrews at 909-621-2859 or fabricdoctorLLC@aol.com for more
    information.
    Last edited by Steve Pierce; 12-08-2016 at 11:52 AM.

  5. #15

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    Thanks guys,
    I looked and looked but could not find it in the Univair Catalogue. Guess you have to just call them. Mine are not very bad, just want to replace since its a total rebuild, so I will go with the bronze bushings. Also could not find the D window channels, so I figure I will just make them. Doesn't look tough at all.
    Jim

  6. #16
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Use the parts list or the Pacer part number for the correct part number. They don't have everything in the catalog. Univair sells the Clipper D window but it is 3-4 times the money of a J3 window which is what Piper used they just cut a section out of it and welded the two halves back together. I use a left hand J3 D window frame part number 10057-000 for any of the Short Wings.

  7. #17
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Tail surface bushings are U80022-045 for the short ones and U80022-044 for the long ones.

  8. #18

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    Thanks, and they are actually much cheaper than at my local farm store. Wow.

  9. #19

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    Steve - those flap/aileron stainless bushings sound like the way to go.

    I removed the aluminium blocks from the hinges so that I could bead blast and powder coat the steel U and then replace them with new mild steel rivets I got from Univair.

    What an absolute bast..d of a job. I don't know the reason for Piper's service letter 216A on those mild steel rivets but it's crap. They corrode inside the aluminium and up to date are impossible to get out. I ended up having to grind both ends of the rivet off, centre punch and drill them to get them out. I now have to either get the rivet shafts out of the aly blocks (I have tried heat, Kroil, small hammer and punch, big hammer and punch, swearing and hurling them across the workshop - nothing worked) or buy new ones.

    If I had to do it again because the hinge pin holes were worn, I would use the stainless inserts and make sure the aly. blocks were well sealed against moisture with paint or powdercoat and let sleeping dogs lie.

  10. #20
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    he knows now NOT to ask me what I am going to use things for
    Curly, you'd make a great bush pilot.
    Reminds me of when I was flying a Sky Magot (C-337) and landed in Jasper/Hinton airport, when the nose wheel came down on the runway the valve stem flew off in the forest. Needless to say, the tire went flat. We push the Mixmaster to the ramp, took the nose tire off and got a ride into town. Whereas, I purchased a tire from a gas station and did a quick R & R. (had a HOT date that night). back to the plane and reinstalled it and off back to Calgary.
    The next day I asked my AME if he could change the tube, and he said "why is it flat?", "no" I said "it's the wrong type of tube". He said, " if its not flat, how do you know that its the wrong type?". The rest is history.....
    No names are given the protect innocent, and no animals were hurt, (I think).

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