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Thread: More wing questions

  1. #1
    Zac Weidner's Avatar
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    Default More wing questions

    I read the long post about removing rib attach screws, but the leading edge screws cannot be hammered to loosen them because this just bends the ribs. With the exception of a few around the edge, "loosener-uppers" cannot be applied to anything but the heads. Just curious about how all of you have removed these.

    When re-installing the leading edges, what does one do when a screw does not tighten up into the ribs? Is it okay to just move the screws 1/4"-1/2" by drilling new holes? I have noticed that Piper somewhat frequently "missed" the rib and had to drill a new hole, sometimes up to 3 times within 1/4" or so.

    What amount of corrosion is "acceptable on leading edge skins? One skin is about 3/4 covered with surface corrosion and the others are less than 1/2 covered. Most of it can be scraped off with little effort, but of course not entirely. Will post pictures later.

    Finally, is it possible that a landing light was "cut into" the wing? The cutout in the leading edge skin seems to be quite crooked and the corners appear to be something somewhat "uncharacteristic" for Piper to have done it this way.

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    Zac,
    I used a Dremel tool and cut a bigger slot in my screws. Bigger screwdriver and the heat from grinding made them come right out. Think about new leading edges, it really shows up under the fabric and it's probably going to be another 25 years until somebody gets in there. Carefully blast, inspect, and prime all your steel parts. I replaced all mine with new, cheap insurance,
    and they were in bad shape.
    Dave

  3. #3
    Zac Weidner's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    I did try the Dremel today on a few screws and it seems to be a good technique. So far they all came loose between Kroil and Dremel tool, but I have plenty to go. I think we will replace at least the skin around the LL (also the most corroded and has a noticeable dent running about 3/4 it's length). I am going to price them from Univair and that will most likely be the deciding factor. (edit: it looks like the outboard LE skin is $41 so I will probably replace that one but, the other skins are $141 and $100 so they will have to avail.) Do the Univair leading edges come pre-formed and/or drilled? All landing light components look good, but the lens and bulbs will be replaced. Other components of the wing look fairly good, but there is some minor corrosion on all of the aluminum. You can probably see some of it in the pictures. The wing looks good overall from what I saw tonight.

    I would still like to know what others do when screws do not tighten in the ribs.

  4. #4
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    I use a cut off wheel and cut a slot like Dave. If you can't get it out you can grind the head off if you are replacing the skin anyway. I would definitely replace those skins. You will see them forever if you don't and regret it. The Univair skins are 2024T3 which is harder and they are formed. Most of the original skins are 3003 which is very soft and dents easily.

  5. #5
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    Zac,
    Try www.DakotaCub.com for pricing on new leading edges. I went with them even though they don't have PMA Vagabond
    leading edges. (owner produced) You will need to drill your leading edges and make sure you use Steve's leading edge clamps for fastening them down. PM me if you need to borrow a set of clamps.
    Dave

  6. #6

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    Default Re: More wing questions

    This summer I heard of another way to remove LE skin screws. You can use an oxy/acc torch with a TINY tip on it and just hit the head of the screw for a nano second with the flame. I was told it works like magic.

    Jason

  7. #7
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    Neat idea, my favorite tool, the Fits-all-fire-wrench.
    Dave

  8. #8
    Zac Weidner's Avatar
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    Default Re: More wing questions

    The dremel tool worked the best for us and we have all the LE screws out now. It can also be used if necessary in the Phillips screws. One or two of the skins is probably going to get replaced due to damage, but the others are not damaged and we can't fathom spending hundreds of dollars on new skins that aren't damaged. It may depend on how well the corrosion cleans up.

    Dakota Cub does not look like it has skins for the PA-22, but I might call them tomorrow to see if some of the other models' skins are interchangeable. Someone on here might know about this.

    Steve,
    I sent you an email a few weeks ago about still needing some felt and I am wondering if it was sent properly.

  9. #9
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Zac,
    Were you able to get leading edges for your Tr-Pacer from Dakota Cub? Looks like I might have some leading edges to do on a Pacer this winter.
    Dave

  10. #10
    Zac Weidner's Avatar
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    We got them from Univair. The Univair ones already have the notches for the correct rib spacing and the DC ones were only slightly less in price but they would have to be cut to length and they did not have the notches. DC would be fine for the outer piece that does not wrap spar to spar but the extra shipping made the difference in price the same as Univair since we would have been getting the full wrap skins from Univair and the partial wrap from DC. Hope that makes sense.

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