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Thread: Bottom Cowl on a Pacer

  1. #141

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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Well as far as the paint trim not lining up in post #5. Number 1 I screwed up in measurements a little. Also the door has not been adjusted at the time. By the way those doors are original 1952 Piper Pacer. Not to many of us have an English wheel or know how to use one. My neighbor that restored a MK-9 Spit stated that the English Wheel was the most complicated 2 piece tool he ever used.
    I realize from your post that you are very knowledgeable Guy. I'm just an old guy that does the best he can with the minimum tools available. Which was good enough to win a Bronze Lindy.
    Everybody has their way that works for them.

  2. #142
    andya's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Jim, I just stumbled on to this when I did my Lower and Upper cowl pieces many years back.
    While trying to figure out how I was going to "form" the doors to the original curves I
    was playing with the door on the work table and realized there were no compound
    curves. Upside down it rolled back in forth over an axis of unknown orientation at the time
    lile it was a large tube. Found a guy with a "roll" on the field and used it, worked well
    I am sure Brian did same on the door he had to make the correct dimension.
    Had an old timer back 25 years ago that there were no compound curve in the early
    pipers.

    andy
    "Progress is our most important problem"

  3. #143
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Quote Originally Posted by wyandot jim View Post
    Gilbert,
    I think or guess or maybe not think what you meant was 2024-T3 with or without alclad

    Next you will wanting to use 7075-T6
    Its been 13 years since I pulled that piece of aluminum out of 3 foot stack of various sheets in a 4' high loft over a marina. Lets just say it's 2024 0.032" . No corrosion and no cracks. Oh, I almost forgot; it was free. Probably more than you wanted to know about it.
    bably more than you wanted to know about it.
    Last edited by Gilbert Pierce; 11-03-2017 at 09:35 PM.

  4. #144

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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Gilbert,
    I want you to know I was just funning with you. If it didn't come across that way I'm very sorry.
    You can't argue with success fer sure. You did good.

  5. #145
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Quote Originally Posted by wyandot jim View Post
    Gilbert,
    I want you to know I was just funning with you. If it didn't come across that way I'm very sorry.
    You can't argue with success fer sure. You did good.
    Yes, Gilbert has the nicest Clipper I've seen, even if it doesn't have flaps.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  6. #146
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl Material

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbert Pierce View Post
    2024T6. This site does not tolerate short messages. All I needed to say was "T6"
    Actually it was T3.

    Never had any issues with T3 cracking, cowlings aren't highly stressed. It is harder to form if you don't have a slip roll.

    I combined your thread with another on the same subject.

    Like previously posted, Spruce has the best price I have found on sheet aluminum and I have it rolled for shipment.
    Last edited by Steve Pierce; 11-04-2017 at 07:14 AM.

  7. #147
    28a's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl on a Pacer

    Thanks for all the good comments including the refresher on aluminum metallurgy. I think I will go with 2024 T3 and hope for the good results that Gilbert had. I have to wonder how much of the durability is from good material choice and how much is due to excellent workmanship to minimize the stress risers. I hope I can meet the challenge.

  8. #148
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl on a Pacer

    Quote Originally Posted by 28a View Post
    Thanks for all the good comments including the refresher on aluminum metallurgy. I think I will go with 2024 T3 and hope for the good results that Gilbert had. I have to wonder how much of the durability is from good material choice and how much is due to excellent workmanship to minimize the stress risers. I hope I can meet the challenge.
    I love this site and enjoyed this thread. I am replacing my cowling this winter and was undecided but, came to the conclusion to use 6061. I don't think one goes wrong anyway they choose. But, I liked all the varying reasons.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  9. #149
    Just Call Me Al's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl on a Pacer

    Stephen,
    Did you ever come to a conclusion on the CHTs changing with the firewall exit change at the bottom? Is there any positives or negatives to the PA-22 vs. the PA-20 firewall? Considering replacing one and trying to decide which route to go. Thank you.

  10. #150
    Marc Davis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Bottom Cowl on a Pacer

    I have Vans RV-6 baffles, including the part that blocks the flow through the flywheel. Stewart STC for oil cooler behind the rear cylinder, PA-22 firewall, seals around the air filter, and the old chin oil cooler hole filled. I don't have CHT yet but the oil are very low in all conditions. I have blocked 3/4 of the oil cooler and still have a hard time getting to 185f oil temp. I've checked the oil temp gauge in boiling water and it's spot on. I suspect the CHTs are also very low.

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