Welcome! Becoming a registered user of ShortWingPipers.Org is free and easy! Click the "Register" link found in the upper right hand corner of this screen. It's easy and you can then join the fun posting and learning about Short Wing Pipers!
I am going to take out the 2 horizontal stab liners and inspect them. I have the zerk fitting on the forward link tube assembly, and the oil hole in the stabilizer rear support tube, but really don't think either are very effective in spreading the lubricant. Does anyone use something spaceage as an assembly lubricant on these parts? It would be nice to be able to grease up the liners with something that wouldn't dry out for a while; not only for freedom of movement but also as an anti-seize for disassembly.
I did read up in the archives of different techniques for disassembly and John W's good results from "Kroil" penetrant, but no votes on the best, longest lasting, non-coagulating, moisture dispersing, slippery, NASA, Mil-Spec lubricant to avoid the proverbial Horizontal Stabs "Tug O War".
I weld a 1/4-28 nut over the rear oil hole and install a grease zerk. Annually I put grease in and it squirts out between the fuselage fitting and the stabilizer.
Has anyone tried Mastinox? European helicopter manufactures use the stuff like mad to keep parts from seizing and water out. I always thought it would work great for the liner.
JW wrote: The "grease" you want for the Zerk on the jackscrew is
MIL-G-23827. Any major manufacturer that supplies grease that conforms to this MIL-spec puts it proudly on their label (it is a "common, golden-brown "short-strand" low temp grease).
For "lighter lubing" of pivot points (such as the sleeves that turn when trim is adjusted) the lubrication chart recommends MIL-L-7870. This is commonly becoming less "easy to find on the label",
but it is what is commonly known as "instrument oil, or more specifically "oil, general purpose, low temperature lubrication" and 3-in-1 works well if used regularly.
His suggestion on the rear lube hole is to keep putting the 3 in 1 oil in frequently, until it is oozing out the ends of the liner. (I don't have the nut and zerk welded over the hole)
Ummm, did I ever mention (I don't recall that I did...) "back in Oh-Eight" that when I assemble the rear liner, I wipe it with molybdenum disulphide grease? That, in conjunction with keeping a couple of drops of 3-in-one in the outer tube hole a couple times a Summer has kept my Daily Driver Colt taildragger's rear tube loose as a goose since 1984. It can be had in "less frugal packaging amounts" from any decent auto parts supply stores (National Aircraft Parts Association, for example.) I've never found anything better for the rear, although if you go too crazy with the 3-in-one oil, it "flushes the MoS2" out the sides and makes a particular mess on anything but a black airplane (mine's Insignia White!). While I recommend this "concoction", I caution about using too much 3-in-one oil, too often. For the front, Generally I use 7, but it gets stiffer'naweddindik below zero degrees OAT.
I should say, lest anyone read it out of context (and I'm pretty sure that I WOULD HAVE mentioned this, back when) that as fantastic as Kroil (or AeroKroil) is for REMOVING stuck liner tubes, it has very little in it that you could call "lubricant". Not good AT ALL for long-term "hanging on". Fact is, its as as bad as regular WD-40 at long-term lubrication (and as good as WD-40 at CLEANING out that crusty, dried out goo from aileron hinges and the like...but it evaporates and IS GONE "overnite"). But, you CAN get it pre-mixed in an aerosol can with silicone in it...they call it "SiliKroil" and some guys around here swear by it. I dunno if you can "beat the service" for lubing the horizontal liners I've gotten out of molybdenum disulfide grease and 3-in-one, tho'. Kano sells all KINDS of stuff, including "Penefite" and another DFG (dry film graphite), "DryPhite" mixtures. Every one of their products I have ever had the pleasure of using has been among the best of that particular kind of stuff I have ever used. Check 'em out at: http://www.kanolabs.com/
The guys over there have noticed that the "mechanics" are no longer answering the technical question. The assumption was that we don't read them and I suppose those of us not yet banned look from time to time, but I have felt little need to reply.
I hesitate to post since I must be on the watch list and have to have my posts vetted by the political comittee before it makes it to the board anyway.
I found the observation on the thread on this subject amusing.
Best regards,
JDB