Primer Lines

[Curly]

This mob sells the same 37 degree flaring tool (same manufacturer - same part no.) as Aircraft Spruce for about half the price. They work great!
www.speedwaymotors.com/37-Degree-Flaring-Tool

[NHPacerPilot]

Thanks Curly! It's real hard to find and inexpensive set that does the 1/8 copper. I hate buying an expensive tool just to use every once in a while!

[Steve Pierce]

This one Curly linked but it doesn't do 1/8" though.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|10/4/2010%208:47:06%20PM=37+degree+flaring+tool&deptId= 0

[NHPacerPilot]

He meant well though. LOL

[Jason Gerard]

I much prefer the factory lycoming stainless primer lines and clamps on the intake tubes than the copper stuff I see on a lot of these old planes. What's the deal, did piper go cheap and buy engines without the factory primer system and make their own setup with copper tube? I've seen lots of crap in the field and even found non primer fittings used in the cyl heads.

Jason

[Curly]

Oops bugger! - I didn't even notice it starts at 3/16" - looks like I will have to go to my local brake shop and get them to flare my primer lines.

I guess it's a bit like the "new - never been fitted" prop I bought - turns out it has been overhauled at least twice and is only just within specs. That was before quarantine opened the carton with a box cutter and put a heap of cuts in the boss and one blade.

Next time I will bite the bullet and buy new locally.

[sbjmobil]

Primer Lines are very interesting, While trying to fugure out how to rout my primer lines I looked at 3 different tri-Pacers in my area. One had no primer lines, the second had lines only on one side and the third plane had a broken line. So I did the best I could that mayed since to me.

Leo

[P.o.P.]

Spruce has p/n 17010 for 1/8 tubing ONLY.

$19.95 in the 08 book.

[Troy Hamon]

We had old primer lines so we replaced them. Then they were breaking every few hours. We looked around at our work and concluded that the routing of the lines had them close enough to the engine baffling where they went by it that there might be a problem of them vibrating into the baffling and that causing the issues, even though they weren't breaking at the baffling. So we cleaned up the entry points by trimming the baffling slightly, and we haven't had a break since. No idea if that has anything to do with your issue or not. But we had a similar problem and that was it.

[NHPacerPilot]

That what mine are doing and I really think it's a routing issue. I'm just going to start from scratch and route them properly. Ordered a flaring tool and was going to order new Tee's until I saw the price of the STD-853 and the list price is a whopping $126 each!