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Thread: Fuel Selector Repair

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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Default Fuel Selector Repair

    Hi All,

    I have a leaking, original Piper, fuel selector. Streams out a nice flow anytime it is moved. It has been installed for 20 years, since it the plane was completely recovered, including fabric fuselage interior.

    In changing one of these, thinking Dakota Cub replacement, and not incorporating Trimmer Fuel Sys STC (until recovering in approx 4 years), how does one aesthetically remove and replace the old valve?

    The fabric goes all the way to the valve. Do people Mark and Cut a square/rectangle/circle around the existing valve (large enough for spanner work) and glue in a backing plate on the rear side of the fabric to screw a new cover/facia/position indicator to, whilst placing/covering over the new valve?

    Interior was done in ceconite/randolph.

    Can someone upload/email some images of changed over fuel selectors - for aircraft not in rebuild

    Thanks
    John
    Last edited by John_McF; 03-18-2012 at 09:49 PM.

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    My valve was leaking like crazy - and there is noticable wear on the shaft to housing clearance - However, just a new "O" ring - and it has been perfect - save you alot of work - maybe try just replacing the "O" ring.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    Interesting,

    Had even thought about that - didn't think there was anything serviceable in there (Pretty embarrassing for an ex Engine/Aircraft mechanic.....).

    Do you have details/images/sizes on hand at all?

    Regards
    John

  4. #4
    rocket's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    John,
    while it might seem easy to replace said fuel selector I would agree with 24C you just might need to service the thing. Replacing the ugly beast is not easy or fun.


    Now here is the rub: as simple as it might aper it is not the kind of thing one should jump into without previous experience. Think of it as surgery on say, some special privet part you are fond of, you could stitch it up with instructions over the phone but more likely then not you will regret it for the rest of your life.


    I suggest you find some crusty, but limber, old timer who has taken one of these apart a couple of times to show you the ropes. After a good lesson then you could get her done your self.


    That being said:


    Get a drawing of the thing-service letter of the two types (brass or plastic valve)


    Drain all the fuel


    remove the handle retaining screw


    unscrew the B-nut cap thingy (?)


    Note the order of parts removed and do not be surprised that the parts removed are not in the order of the drawing- You do have drawing RIGHT! Good.


    note the condition of the 1/4 inch shaft in particular to where the o-ring rubs. If this is bad it might just need to be polished, if it is really bad you might need a new one. I had a pilot/gunsmith make one for his cub once and should of had him make ten.


    Note the condition of the valve cone like thing attached to the 1/4 shaft and the seat in the valve body bolted to the frame. Same as above polish or replace (good luck) I have never tried it but one could perhaps use a bit of valve grinding past to effect but cleaning it afterwards could be a problem without removing it and let me tell you you do not want to start removing the lines from this fatherless child unless you are a flared tubbing from purgatory wizard. Where was I…?


    Clean all really well. Gather up a pea size ball of REAL fuel lube (send me some for taking the time to type this out for you cause mine is all gone) and apply a thin layer to the cone/seat area and reassemble per the SL SB drawing instructions with a new o-ring.


    Here is the most critical step in the whole fuel selector operation. Make sure it works the way it should. Hard to screw up actually but one never knows. Pour fuel into one tank and verify it flows in that position and that position only; and flows well! fuel the other tank and check accordingly.


    Unavair sells this great book with all the early piper SB and SL and a host of other fine information it sells for about $70 US but…priceless the first time it saves having to re-drain the fuel tanks.


    Good luck and keep a fire extinguisher handy,


    Rocket

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    Hi Rocket,

    This is Australia here, Crusty and Limber are almost mutally exclusive and toss in a "seen" a Piper fuel valve and you will be definitely hitting the Project Management "you only get 2 sides of the triangle - You pick" thing.

    Now I haven't spend any money on drawing, cd's, books and subscriptions (Sorry Steve - I will one day pay for here) - rather pour that into avgas based enjoyment.

    What is the Piper SL/SB that deals with the fatherless child valve ?

    Cheers
    John

  6. #6

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    I have changed out the old for a new dakota valve. cut the fabric as you described, the new valve hooks up to the original piping very quickly and fairly simply. then repair the fabric the way you described or do like I did, I cut a square plate out of thin aluminum, rolled the edges, Painted it flat black, installed it with velcro for easy rmoval for inspection if necessary, and applied the new decal showing left-right- offf- both. took me about3 hours for the whole job and I am no pro mechanic. the new valve works sooooo much better than that original piper piece of s---t. I tried the repair a few times and was a waste of time and you are still stuckk with the recurring AD. with the new valve ,The AD goes away. RLM

  7. #7
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    Fuel Valve parts breakdown.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Jetfever's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    Univair replacement detent washer is crap.

    I had no fuel leak, but the detent/ feel was gone, and the valve felt dry when moving the selector. My A&P and I/A wanted me to lube the original valve and get the detent back so there is a positive selection for each tank position, as well as OFF position, important in an emergency. I ordered the Univair detent washer Part # -756-645.

    http://www.univair.com/piper/piper-p...-valve-washer/

    On disassembly inspection, (easy if you know to remove the detent washer with a bent piece of lock wire opposite the tab) my detent washer was worn and cupped on the side that rubs on the roll pin. Comparing the new Univair washer, the 4 inside square cutouts ARE SMALLER in the new Univair part! The new Univair part fit right in, but after fitting, there was NO IMPROVEMENT in the detent feel. (This is due to the small inside cut outs).

    I re-fitted the original detent washer reversed so the side that had never rubbed the roll pin was now in action and I have a valve that feels perfect (like new) with very good detent.

    The O ring is a standard Piper part. I have not leak checked and tested the valve, I hope to do that today.

    Short version: Don't waste money on the Univar replacement Detent washer if it is possible to reuse the original. Made in China? No quality control?

    John-McF, Post #12 this thread said he "bashed with a hammer" (flattened) his original detent washer. I bet that would work almost as well as reversing the washer as I did.

    Is there a way to enlarge the internal cutout "squares" in the new part (photo below) so that it will work?


    Steve
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    smcnutt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    Andy's site has info about this also. Check the top of the left column.

    http://home.earthlink.net/~andy2220/id4.html
    “Seek advice but use your own common sense.”
    ― Yiddish Proverb

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector - changing

    John - if you need a new valve I have a spare new Maule valve that is called out in Eddie Trimmer's fuel mod - about 1/3 price of the Dakota valve. However if money is no object I would use the Dakota valve. It's a really nice piece of gear.

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