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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
Hard landings Theo? Seriously, I've never replaced a fuel drain in a Tri-Pacer but I have in other Pipers, aka, Cherokee's. Not sure if it applies here, but use caution in over tightening. If you crack the boss (I think that's what it's called) it gets a little pricey. Somebody else can probably clear that up for you.
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
Theo
I replaced mine recently. I grabbed a buddy and we changed them without draining the fuel. we had new ones all set up to be installed c/w fuel lube on the threads of the new ones. one of us handled the wrench while the other was ready with his thumb. as the old one came out we quickly plugged the hole with a thumb. grabbed the new one and very quickly moved the thumb while the other one guy screwed in the new one- lost less than a 1/2 pint out of each wing.
if I was to do it again I would use a rubber glove and a rag wrapped around the wrist. I love the smell of avgas but I didn't get to a shower for a while and I stunk
hope this helps but if you would rather drain the tanks and don't forget to wipe down the jerry cans with a damp rag- static electricity is not our friend
hope this helps
shane-o
Shane
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
As I recall, Curtis no longer sell spare replacement seals, though you might find some, somewhere. Saf-air use a small O-ring seal which can be replaced. I got rid of the Curtis type and went to the Saf-air CAV-110.
Again, have it ready, complete with fuel lube, and be quick. A helper with a thumb is enough, besides, the fuel will run down his arm! You'll lose a pint at most, but I wouldn't do the job in the hangar.
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
If it is the right tank you can fly it to empty. Then there is no dripping. The left tank takes a little more coordination to get empty.
Tim
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
+1 on the safe-air drains. They use a common ms oring, easily replaceable. If you drain the tanks, you will have a good opportunity to clean and lube and inspect the fuel selector valve, if your still using the original piper selector. Takes care of the valve AD. I used safe-air cav-160 on my pacer. These are the flush ones that push up to drain.
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
We've replaced the o-rings and ended up having it leak again. Since we could buy a new valve for so little we simply replaced it after that. When we just did the o-ring we drained the tank but when we replaced the whole valve we didn't bother. As others said, didn't loose much fuel in the process.
“Seek advice but use your own common sense.”
― Yiddish Proverb
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
After sumping the tanks, my right valve started leaking several drips a minute. Apparently, there was some trash in the seat, I messed with it for a few minutes and it quit and has not done it again. I have also heard of people blowing a little bit of air through them, but it seems like a bad idea to blow the trash back into the tank. - Dwain
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
Originally Posted by
rwdurham
Hard landings Theo?
Seriously, I've never replaced a fuel drain in a Tri-Pacer but I have in other Pipers, aka, Cherokee's. Not sure if it applies here, but use caution in over tightening. If you crack the boss (I think that's what it's called) it gets a little pricey. Somebody else can probably clear that up for you.
From the Curtis wall chart pipe thread torque specifications.
1/8-27 N.P.T. 40-45 in. lbs
1/4-18 N.P.T. 80-85 in. lbs
3/8-18 N.P.T. 105-115 in. lbs
1/2-14 N.P.T. 155-165 in. lbs
Curtis valves do not use o-rings they have a special flat molded seal. Using compressed air to dislodge junk around the seal may cause the seal to move and loose its bond. We had a special sump tool in the shop that everyone called the "cowbell". It had a bucket with a holding device in the center. The holding part allowed you to remove and start a new valve while the bucket captured the fuel and prevented it from getting all over you.
Todd
Last edited by Vagabondblues; 04-12-2013 at 11:16 AM.
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
Oh, now we need a picture of the cowbell please!
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Re: Leaky fuel drain valve
Hey, this might be a dumb question, but....
I understand that prudence dictate we ground our AC before fueling and do whatever we can to eliminate static charges, but... what's the difference when fueling automobiles? Why is it that the ability to ground a car is not there when fueling up? Is it the pump? The fuel? The vehicle? Just curious as to why we take such care with AC but simply pump gas into our cars.
I know, simple question, but it's been bugging me for a while. Walt
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