Welcome! Becoming a registered user of ShortWingPipers.Org is free and easy! Click the "Register" link found in the upper right hand corner of this screen. It's easy and you can then join the fun posting and learning about Short Wing Pipers!

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 45

Thread: Wing tank sump drains that don't leak?

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Decatur, Texas
    Posts
    343
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    Hard landings Theo? Seriously, I've never replaced a fuel drain in a Tri-Pacer but I have in other Pipers, aka, Cherokee's. Not sure if it applies here, but use caution in over tightening. If you crack the boss (I think that's what it's called) it gets a little pricey. Somebody else can probably clear that up for you.

  2. #12
    gliderman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Red Deer,AB Canada
    Posts
    1,074
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    Theo
    I replaced mine recently. I grabbed a buddy and we changed them without draining the fuel. we had new ones all set up to be installed c/w fuel lube on the threads of the new ones. one of us handled the wrench while the other was ready with his thumb. as the old one came out we quickly plugged the hole with a thumb. grabbed the new one and very quickly moved the thumb while the other one guy screwed in the new one- lost less than a 1/2 pint out of each wing.
    if I was to do it again I would use a rubber glove and a rag wrapped around the wrist. I love the smell of avgas but I didn't get to a shower for a while and I stunk
    hope this helps but if you would rather drain the tanks and don't forget to wipe down the jerry cans with a damp rag- static electricity is not our friend

    hope this helps
    shane-o
    Shane

  3. #13
    59pacer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Mulgoa, Australia
    Posts
    495
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    As I recall, Curtis no longer sell spare replacement seals, though you might find some, somewhere. Saf-air use a small O-ring seal which can be replaced. I got rid of the Curtis type and went to the Saf-air CAV-110.
    Again, have it ready, complete with fuel lube, and be quick. A helper with a thumb is enough, besides, the fuel will run down his arm! You'll lose a pint at most, but I wouldn't do the job in the hangar.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Hutchinson, MN
    Posts
    732
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    If it is the right tank you can fly it to empty. Then there is no dripping. The left tank takes a little more coordination to get empty.

    Tim

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    257
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    +1 on the safe-air drains. They use a common ms oring, easily replaceable. If you drain the tanks, you will have a good opportunity to clean and lube and inspect the fuel selector valve, if your still using the original piper selector. Takes care of the valve AD. I used safe-air cav-160 on my pacer. These are the flush ones that push up to drain.

  6. #16
    smcnutt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    1,589
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    We've replaced the o-rings and ended up having it leak again. Since we could buy a new valve for so little we simply replaced it after that. When we just did the o-ring we drained the tank but when we replaced the whole valve we didn't bother. As others said, didn't loose much fuel in the process.
    “Seek advice but use your own common sense.”
    ― Yiddish Proverb

  7. #17
    Dwain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    124
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    After sumping the tanks, my right valve started leaking several drips a minute. Apparently, there was some trash in the seat, I messed with it for a few minutes and it quit and has not done it again. I have also heard of people blowing a little bit of air through them, but it seems like a bad idea to blow the trash back into the tank. - Dwain

  8. #18
    Vagabondblues's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    894
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    Quote Originally Posted by rwdurham View Post
    Hard landings Theo? Seriously, I've never replaced a fuel drain in a Tri-Pacer but I have in other Pipers, aka, Cherokee's. Not sure if it applies here, but use caution in over tightening. If you crack the boss (I think that's what it's called) it gets a little pricey. Somebody else can probably clear that up for you.
    From the Curtis wall chart pipe thread torque specifications.

    1/8-27 N.P.T. 40-45 in. lbs
    1/4-18 N.P.T. 80-85 in. lbs
    3/8-18 N.P.T. 105-115 in. lbs
    1/2-14 N.P.T. 155-165 in. lbs

    Curtis valves do not use o-rings they have a special flat molded seal. Using compressed air to dislodge junk around the seal may cause the seal to move and loose its bond. We had a special sump tool in the shop that everyone called the "cowbell". It had a bucket with a holding device in the center. The holding part allowed you to remove and start a new valve while the bucket captured the fuel and prevented it from getting all over you.


    Todd
    Last edited by Vagabondblues; 04-12-2013 at 11:16 AM.

  9. #19
    Glen Geller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon, United States
    Posts
    1,462
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    Oh, now we need a picture of the cowbell please!

  10. #20
    walt.buskey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Etna, NH
    Posts
    1,286
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Leaky fuel drain valve

    Hey, this might be a dumb question, but....

    I understand that prudence dictate we ground our AC before fueling and do whatever we can to eliminate static charges, but... what's the difference when fueling automobiles? Why is it that the ability to ground a car is not there when fueling up? Is it the pump? The fuel? The vehicle? Just curious as to why we take such care with AC but simply pump gas into our cars.

    I know, simple question, but it's been bugging me for a while. Walt

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •