Nose wheel strut rebuild

[cjutzi]

I've pulled the front strut.. here is a pic of the top bearing.. It was in great shape.. I cleaned off the grease ..
Can anyone tell me if this is the old or the new 452-419 ??
It looks like drawing in the service letter https://store-dtwuls.mybigcommerce.c...PIP_SL0405.pdf
Pics:
http://www.shortwingpipers.org/photo...180208&cat=552
http://www.shortwingpipers.org/photo...183110&cat=552

Also.. it wasn't that big of a deal now that I've gone through it.. If this is the older bearing, it seems to me that repacking and closing it back up is alot easier and alot cheaper than replacing it with the $200 replacement (or the $80 replacement if that is the proper one)..

Thx
Curt

[Iowatripacer]

Curt,
When I changed mine to new sealed bearing it had covers over the balls on each side of bearing. Yours appear to be the original design to me. (old). Think I paid 60 bucks for it a couple years go. Found the cover at univair.

John
Iowatripacer

[cjutzi]

Just for closure..

Turns out the bearing was the Univar part (B545) Stamped on the bottom.. Loading groves were on the top as required I just couldn't see them.. They are not as obvious as what is described in the Service Letter PDF (above). All this because the AD was not documented in my airframe log.. hum.. bummer.. I hate breaking something apart that isn't broken.. especially if I have not done it before.. and it doesn't need to be done... but it's got a fresh packing of grease.. good for.. well.. a long while I hope..

Thx
Curt

[steve.evans]

Where can I find advice on how to remove the nose oleo of my Colt in order to carry out AD 64-05-04? I am a licenced mechanic in the UK but have only recently got involved with older Pipers.

[Steve Pierce]

Steve, welcome to ShortWingPipers.Org I merged your thread with another on the subject. I think you will find the information you need here.

[gliderman]

Hi folks
Well we have about 10 hours on the FUWA since rebuild and a couple of maintenance squawks are showing up....
Looks like I'm gonna have to rebuild the front oleo as it won't keep air. Looking in the pRts book looks like I need a couple of seals . Does anyone have any words of wisdom and it is these two seals all I'm going to need it
Thanks all
Shane-o

[rocket]

S/o,
of it is leaking the air/nitragen you don't need a Pringles kit you need a Schrader valve.
https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog...clickkey=52481

About 3 bucks and a couple of skinned knockles.
Double check with soapy water or a little spit.

If hydroluc fluid is leaking out the bottom then it's time for the oring kit. The one I get is generic for a PA28... I think.

Rocket

[gliderman]

S/o,
of it is leaking the air/nitragen you don't need a Pringles kit you need a Schrader valve.
https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog...clickkey=52481

About 3 bucks and a couple of skinned knockles.
Double check with soapy water or a little spit.

If hydroluc fluid is leaking out the bottom then it's time for the oring kit. The one I get is generic for a PA28... I think.

Rocket

Hi Rocket

already changed the schrader valve- it's a leakin

[rocket]

S/o
Ok, I have a confession to make. I've never done a Tripacer before. I have done almost every other flavor of Piper and all the Cessna nose draggers.

So a few things:
-secure the tail securely. Don't skimp on this.
-let the air out of the Schrader.
-pull the fork off the block and the top and bottom torque link while you are at it. I've seen more monkeys monkey around trying to do this with the tire and fork attached. It's only four nuts. Every plane out here has a big tire and Airglass fork.
-get yourself a few feet of 5/16 Tygon fuel hose. It's bright yellow. Save yourself some drama and just get it. While you are at it get some of the smaller size for bleeding your brakes, you will think me later.
-one small water bottle with cap. Dry. You want to make a hole in the cap that allows the Tygon hose fit in but vary snug. You are going to use this to "service" the fluid in your strut. One end of the hose fits over the outside of your plug threads, the ones your cap screws over, and you suck the fluid into your strut, and then expel it once it has been filled.
-on my tripacer I don't expel the fluid completely I will stop about 1.5" /5cm from all the way up. Lots of good reasons for this (someone correct me on this if I am all wet, you know, with 5606)
-thinking the rest is the same as a pa28-140 etc but someone will need to chime in.
-pay vary close attention to how the oring and thin packing/backup comes out. Don't assume it was put in correctly ether, ever!
-I build up all my 5606 systems with silicon grease.
-if spraying solvent is an issue get a water bottle sprayer and put your solvent in it: supper handy and we keep a handful of them throughout the shop. One of my minions put blue gas in one for a really problematic mess: smart sorta!?
-I have had strut seals take a couple fillings of air before they held.
-fill your strut with about 100psi use I g a proper regulator, tail down with no weight on it. Pull down firmly on the prop with all your weight. We run about 6-8 inches of chrome out here but the rule always had been a pack of cigarettes. I don't think too high is a good idea but I don't have the time to get into it.
-clean clean clean.
-I bought my tripacer in 2002... Never touched my strut seal. Bet I drop into the hanger tonight and she is flat!

[Frank Green]

I use the red silicone o rings. I find the bunas leak in the winter. Reds no problem.