Tail Brace Hardware

[pmanton]

I have the round stainless steel tail brace wires. The adjusting hardware is getting pretty rusty. I can not find any breakdown or drawing that calls out part numbers for the jamb nut at the top of the adjusting sleeve, or the square captive nut assembly that attaches the wire to the clevis.

Are these parts available? Is the jamb nut perhaps standard?

Thanks

Paul
N1431A
KSDM

[Stephen]

I bought all these parts through Univair http://univairparts.com/shopping/index.php

[Glen Geller]

Paul, Is the hardware too rusty to disassemble, clean with de-rust-o and wire brush, then reinstall with paint protection?

[pmanton]

Cleaning up the existing hardware would make the most sense. However I'm presently parked outside at San Diego, Calif. with all my tools 1300 miles north in storage. If I had the hardware to replace the rusty parts it would simplify things.

I have searched the drawing CD and Univair's web site and not located the jamb nut nor the captive nut at the bottom. Univair does list "hardware" U10075-002 and 003 at $20.91 with no illustration to tell what it is. At 20.91 times 8 that would be a bit of a pricey rust clean up. :cry:

Cheers:

Paul
N1431A
KSDM

[Steve Pierce]

I've got a brand new set of wires. I will see what the parts are.

[rmalone]

Mine were in bad shape and in need of replacement. It will cost you at least 21.00 for an end and a nut. They are not cheap. At least Univair has them.

[Gilbert Pierce]

Take them to a propellor shop that rebuilds CS props. They usually have a barrell plater to replate the cadmium hardware. They can glass bead that hardware and plate it with cadmium. I did that with all of my rough looking hardware that was not common nuts, bolts, clevis pins etc, especially all that stuff in the tail. Be sure to tell them to bake it. That drives out the hydrogen ions and will prevent hydrogen imbrittlement which will cause failure in stressed parts.
They can do it in white cad or dip it right after plating and make it yellow.
The trip crank was plated in chrome.

[Glen Geller]

Gilbert, that is some sexy stuff there! Great tip about the prop shop for plating etc.
I love the nutplate frame for the access cover on the opposite side of the tail. I'm gonna do that some day, I just put a dab of silicone sealant on the threads when screwing into the fabric. Pain in the tail to clean off each year during inspection.

Don't forget to lockwire that turnbuckle!
GG

[Gilbert Pierce]

Glen,
I got tired of the screws falling out and replacing them with ever larger until I had to use silicone on them. When I rebuilt the airplane I drew the out line of the plastic grommets Univair supplies on Auto Cad. The local machine shop had a water jet machine. He cutout a stack of those grommets in aluminum. I riveted on #6 tinnerman nut plates. I used the Univair plastic grommets glued on the fabric with doily over it in the normal fashion. When I cut out the insides for the inspection cover I glued the aluminum grommets onto the back of the fabric so that now that is all clamped together and no more screws falling out. Steve put nut plates on the bottom U channels so all my belly screws are also now machine screws. We did the same thing on the wing fairings. There are no sheet metal screws left on the outside of the airplane other than those that hold the door skins on.

Those turn buckles are now safetied but thanks for noticing. I took those pictures as I was rigging the airplane. Safety wiring those turnbuckles is a real b---h.

[Glen Geller]

Excellent report, you get an "A".
For extra credit, please post the files for the grommets so we all don't have to reinvent the wheel.
And yes, I'll bet lockwiring that turnbuckle is a bearh!
GG

[Steve Pierce]

Glen, If you want to save yourself a lot of time they are here. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=77 (http://www.shortwingpipers.org/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=77)

[Glen Geller]

Very nice, I'll have to get a set when I get back to work. Soon I hope!
I don't think any of the openings on my bird have the plastic grommets. Wonder what else they left off when it was last recovered?
Happy New Year to All,
GG

[Zac Weidner]

Take them to a propellor shop that rebuilds CS props. They usually have a barrell plater to replate the cadmium hardware. They can glass bead that hardware and plate it with cadmium. I did that with all of my rough looking hardware that was not common nuts, bolts, clevis pins etc, especially all that stuff in the tail. Be sure to tell them to bake it. That drives out the hydrogen ions and will prevent hydrogen imbrittlement which will cause failure in stressed parts.
They can do it in white cad or dip it right after plating and make it yellow.
The trip crank was plated in chrome.

I live in Illinois and when I called the local prop shops, none of them can do cadmium plating and one of them said a place in Arkansas is the closest place. They have not been answering their phone, and I was wondering what place you used and where it is located. Thanks

[Gilbert Pierce]

Memphis Propeller

http://www.memphispropeller.com/

[Zac Weidner]

Memphis Propeller

http://www.memphispropeller.com/

Thanks Gilbert, I'll give them a call tomorrow.