Bronze bushing?

[Cathy Pierce]

Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a bronze bushing in the upper/lower torque link assembly of the nose gear? We have either misplaced ours or the airplane never came with one. I have looked at the drawing CD and it does not list one, but the opening of the hole suggests that there possibly should be one. Any ideas?

[JohnW]

Yes, Cathy.. Piper part number 80022-47; 2ea per airplane (upper scissor-link only). Ref. PA-22 Parts Catalog Figure 43, I item -5. Today's Internet price from the Univair site... $2.36 each.

[Steve Pierce]

John, I think Cathy is missing the bushing between the two scissors. I don't have a parts manual handy to see what you are referencing. I will check when I get to the hanger.

[JohnW]

The "scissors-half pivot bolt"??? Errrrr, not sure if that is originally bushed, or not!?! I believe it was NOT bushed. I only have the one in the built up assembly for The Jewel (799.19 hrs total time), and I admit to being just a tad "reluctant" to remove the 5/16" pivot bolt to actually LOOK. The strut is "charged" but not installed on the aircraft, and while I ASSUME that you can remove that bolt (and that the snap ring is "even" there), I just don't wanna hafta "unload it" to pull the bolt (lest I have to "squoose it back together again" to re-install it!). I'd hate to hafta "jack it" compressed a little to get the bolt back home, dig?

Ogling it close up, I see Piper used the "weld a piece of pipe inside, between the two holes in the scissor, itself" trick for the bolt to pass through. While this "sleeve" is SLIGHTLY larger OD than 5/16", I'd say "not by much". MAYBE 7/16" OD (can't get a real measuring device in there to tell for sure). Certainly not any more larger in diameter than the MLG attach bolt fittings are... Seems pretty "slim" for there being a bushing in there.

That, coupled with the fact that the PM does NOT list the bush for that location (nor does it list the cross bolt, for that matter!), I'm leaning towards "I think you got a Cessna Mekanick repair job there." I'm thinking that Piper only "serviced" the scissors itself "as a unit" but allowed for "field servicing" the upper half attach bolt (holes). At any rate... the cross bolt itself is undeniably 5/16" from the factory (and the strut assembly itself is the same for the Colt as the Tripe), so clearly if a 5/16" bolt isn't the "right fit there", then Houston, we have a problem!

If no one else steps up that has one apart (or spares to look at) then push come to shove, just say the word and I WILL disassemble these scissors for a definitive answer. I just don't wanna dick up the paint on this one, and there IS NO "airplane standing on it right now". For you, anything... (except..."no answer for this one, at this time").

Nothing in this life is EVER easy, is it? [Ah, well...if it was "easy" then EVERYBODY would be doing it!]

[Cathy Pierce]

Well, we had a tripacer hanging in the ceiling in the storage hanger and looked at the scissors belonging to that airplane. We found 2 bushings size 5/16 ID 7/16 OD in the scissors. Still not sure if my bushings were just not in the airplane or if they were misplaced since we had teenagers taking everything apart. :shock:

[attachment=1:1fpkisft]100_3127 (Medium).JPG[/attachment:1fpkisft][attachment=0:1fpkisft]100_3128 (Medium).JPG[/attachment:1fpkisft]

[Steve Pierce]

Odd how the bushings aren't shown in the parts catalog or any of the drawings I have found. I looked at McMaster Carr and appears they have what I need. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeve-bearings/=3m5tzp Not sure if I should go with Oilite or Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze?

[Hillbilly]

Odd how the bushings aren't shown in the parts catalog or any of the drawings I have found. I looked at McMaster Carr and appears they have what I need. http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeve-bearings/=3m5tzp Not sure if I should go with Oilite or Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze?
Steve If I'm not mistaken the Oilite is for a rotating assembly (like a starter motor), I think the bronze would be more suited (strengthwise) to your application.

[Steve Pierce]

Bronze Type SAE 841 Bronze Load (P Max) 2,000

Bronze Type Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze Load (P Max) 4,000

Allan, I think you are correct. I didn't think about not really rotating. I think in this application a higher load is better than self lubrication. $1.33 each vs. .49, you can't find many deals like that in aviation. ;) Thanks for the heads up.

[Hillbilly]

Bronze Type SAE 841 Bronze Load (P Max) 2,000

Bronze Type Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze Load (P Max) 4,000

Allan, I think you are correct. I didn't think about not really rotating. I think in this application a higher load is better than self lubrication. $1.33 each vs. .49, you can't find many deals like that in aviation. ;) Thanks for the heads up.

Shucks, I'm happy to be of any service. Plus I have to uphold my average, that is that .00001% of what I say has any useful purpose. (Jim, thats not an invitation :lol: )

[Bultaco Jim]

You should see me just a-quivering right now.

[Hillbilly]

I can only imagine you are about to explode, sorta like flyin 4 hours on a 3 hour bladder.

[mjlossner]

I rebushed our tripacer a last year and found P/N's matched our company's warrior. so we already had pieces/parts in stock! Ever have a direct steerin nose wheel shimney? Bothers the wife, got fixed right away.
Mike

[FFSchooley]

All,
I am replacing these bushings. According to the parts manual, the same bushings are used on the top and bottom of the link. I purchased them, and got the top two old ones out. The bottom two however won’t come out. There isn’t a lip inside big enough to tap them out with, almost as if there is a third inner bushing or a sleeve that they seat up against? Any ideas what I am missing here?

16863

[Wag-builder]

I used a 1/4" punch and went through from the far side and was able to drive the old bushing out, then repeat for the other side. It was a long punch with a good square edge and it did catch the bushing and once is moves you can then get one the edge of the bushing and drive it out.

Good luck,

Steve

[FFSchooley]

Thanks Steve. The others came out so easy I wanted to make sure the lowers weren’t different. I will keep plugging away at it.

[at7615]

I got a punch made special for jobs like this, bent, ground, & tweaked.

[Glen Geller]

All,
I am replacing these bushings. According to the parts manual, the same bushings are used on the top and bottom of the link. I purchased them, and got the top two old ones out. The bottom two however won’t come out. There isn’t a lip inside big enough to tap them out with, almost as if there is a third inner bushing or a sleeve that they seat up against? Any ideas what I am missing here?

16863

I am finally getting to this project and was reviewing posts for info and saw this.
I used a 3/8-24 tap (first a taper, then a bottoming tap) and tapped as deep as possible on each bushing.
Then I screwed in a bolt, and used a 6" long drift (pin punch) from the opposite side, with a remarkably small hammer, and they were no trouble at all.

The replacement bushings I bought are these from McM-C:
Oil-Embedded Bronze Sleeve Bearing
for 5/16" Shaft Diameter, for 7/16" Housing ID, 7/16" Long
https://www.mcmaster.com/6391K923/

I think I'll pre-freeze the bushings on the scissor bolt (I have a beer fridge in hangar with a great freezer, and also an inverted can of aerosol de-duster is super cold) and draw them into place on a hot Portland afternoon.

GG