Welcome! Becoming a registered user of ShortWingPipers.Org is free and easy! Click the "Register" link found in the upper right hand corner of this screen. It's easy and you can then join the fun posting and learning about Short Wing Pipers!
-
01-13-2018, 01:01 PM
#271
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Yeah...that was fun! The tedious part was centering the #40 drill bit at each punch mark on the drill press for the first 300+ drill holes in the first flat bar..then match drill the second flat bar with a cordless, then drill the spar through both plates.....then another 300+ holes at 1/8”...1200+ drill holes. Deburred after each drill size........My fubar’d right hand felt wonderful after all that.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
01-17-2018, 04:46 AM
#272
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Little something done. Milled 3/8” by 1” aluminum flat bar to .345” thick to maintain proper rear wing strut mount spacing.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
01-22-2018, 09:33 PM
#273
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Tank bay false spar version 2.0 Didn’t like the flush rivet results from the first go-a-round.. part of the problem was the .014” to .016” thick false spar material. Decided to use Dakota Cub false spar material...it’s.020” thick. Use flush stainless cherry pull rivets. Final results much better.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
01-23-2018, 03:35 AM
#274
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Mark,
always best to dip those pull rivets in just a taste of proseal or other polysulfide sealant before pushing them into the hole and pulling.
Working out your hand might be the best thing for it?
-
01-23-2018, 05:42 AM
#275
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Originally Posted by
mmoyle
I can’t say what the numbers are....the bending load on the rear spar is increased due to the additional leverage exerted on the rear spar inboard of the wing strut attach point by the outboard end of aileron being moved out to 160”....which is the same distance as the outer radius of the wing tip bow. When Eddie and I talked about the thickness of the spar reinforcement I thought .050” or .063” 2024T3 on both sides of the spar would have been sufficient. Eddie wanted 1/8”. Maybe his DER made that recommendation?
You’re not the only person that has asked me this... I’m tempted to buy the aeronautical engineering books to learn this stuff.. I can easily calculate bending loads on steel and aluminum if the dimensions are nominal or listed in one of my mechanical engineering books.... but this aircraft engineering stuff is beyond me.. I don’t have a good grasp of how air pressure acts at a given speed to calculate force or weight on the structure... I’m hoping Eddie’s DER can get his STC done...
If it doesn’t happen my fall back is to generate Cad drawings in Cadkey, send the drawings to a Boeing Engineer who owes an attorney friend in Stockton Ca...who gifted that debt to me... That attorney being Marc Bourget who I believe owns the Thorp experimental. Marc was partnered with John Thorp. Anyway...I’ve spoke with the Boeing engineer a few times...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
For load calculations the weight increase is multiplied by maximum g loads 3.8. I agree with you that .125 is massive and overkill. The Bushmaster uses .50 reinforcing plates (44 inches long) as does the approved Piper splice. Also, Bushmaster's original straight plates were later modified to contoured adding more material at the top and bottom of the rib which saved weight and increased strength when they went to 2100 lb GW. When I was engineering a similar mod to Trimmer's the wing was stiffened at the leading edge and with extruded 1/2 inch angle aluminum at the top and bottom spar around the strut attachment. The rear spar is most critical. This brings back memories of last winter bucking hundreds of AD rivets in my spar.
It sounds like Eddie is still designing this STC. Are you his test platform?
Last edited by Stephen; 01-23-2018 at 05:48 AM.
"You can only tie the record for flying low."
-
01-23-2018, 12:17 PM
#276
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Originally Posted by
rocket
Mark,
always best to dip those pull rivets in just a taste of proseal or other polysulfide sealant before pushing them into the hole and pulling.
Working out your hand might be the best thing for it?
Yeah...pushing the hand....gets frustrating at times..pinky likes to hump the ring finger.. will wait until next fall to get that corrected..should have good bone density by then for the surgeon to get it right.
Why use the sealant? Dissimilar metals or preventing something?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
01-23-2018, 12:23 PM
#277
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Originally Posted by
Stephen
For load calculations the weight increase is multiplied by maximum g loads 3.8. I agree with you that .125 is massive and overkill. The Bushmaster uses .50 reinforcing plates (44 inches long) as does the approved Piper splice. Also, Bushmaster's original straight plates were later modified to contoured adding more material at the top and bottom of the rib which saved weight and increased strength when they went to 2100 lb GW. When I was engineering a similar mod to Trimmer's the wing was stiffened at the leading edge and with extruded 1/2 inch angle aluminum at the top and bottom spar around the strut attachment. The rear spar is most critical. This brings back memories of last winter bucking hundreds of AD rivets in my spar.
It sounds like Eddie is still designing this STC. Are you his test platform?
Eddie hasn’t mention using my Pacer as a test platform. Testing was supposed to take place last fall. Will ask him the next time we flip each other err stuff.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
02-01-2018, 04:31 PM
#278
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Mark,
Dipping pull rivers was SOP for Boiing and MD when I played with them, ditto Bell choppers. Guessing for all the usual reasons. Don't worry that you didn't but they are less likely to smoke or drop the center and of course the corrosion proofing always is a plus if you have chromated polysulfide
Sent from my iPhone using ShortWingPipers.Org
-
02-13-2018, 09:32 PM
#279
-
02-14-2018, 10:54 PM
#280
Re: Platinum Pacer Wings
Question: I’m installing PA18 flap gap seals. Needed to open up the angle a bit, then use the leaf brake make it fit to the concave surface of the false spar. I’d like to permanently install....after painting the internal/hidden surfaces (false spar and gap seal) to prevent corrosion....I’d like cover the wing with the flap gap seal installed.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules