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Thread: Installing RV engine baffles

  1. #21
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Here are pictures of my installed Vans baffles after about 400 hours of use. Engine pulled to restore fuselage. Disregard the T-P mount the engine is sitting on.
    My front two cylinders were running cold, actually stuck a valve because of it, I now have flat plates in front of #1 and #2 to calibrate those temps. My CHT variation now is about 10 degrees.
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    Last edited by Gilbert Pierce; 12-02-2017 at 12:13 PM.

  2. #22
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Compared to the Vans wimpy baffle seals above the McFarland seal stands up nice and proud. Disregard the bugs. This is a traveling airplane.
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  3. #23
    CamTom12's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Another big fan of the Macfarlane seals!

  4. #24
    CamTom12's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Another big fan of the Macfarlane seals!

  5. #25
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    How does the MacFarlane seals differ from the solid silicone seals AC Spruce sells?

    Plus, you choose between iron oxide, light blue and black! Wow
    Last edited by Stephen; 12-02-2017 at 08:34 PM.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  6. #26
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Less friction where it contacts cowl and so less engine vibration transferred to the airframe. They have a video of a test rig that demostrates it.

    For me it was a longer lasting stiffer seal and it did NOT buff the paint off the underside of the painted top cowl as previous seals have done. Evidentially there really is less friction. I am not one to fall for marking hype.

    http://www.aviationpros.com/press_re...ves-an-upgrade

  7. #27
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbert Pierce View Post
    Less friction where it contacts cowl and so less engine vibration transferred to the airframe. They have a video of a test rig that demostrates it.

    For me it was a longer lasting stiffer seal and it did NOT buff the paint off the underside of the painted top cowl as previous seals have done. Evidentially there really is less friction. I am not one to fall for marking hype.

    http://www.aviationpros.com/press_re...ves-an-upgrade
    I read that other aircraft parts stores (like AC Spruce) also sell this seal. They call it "Cowl Saver" seal, it is 10 times more slippery. It's not cheap.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  8. #28
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I also read that this Cowl Saver material is not PMA'd. I wonder if it makes our airplanes unairworthy?
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  9. #29
    Jim's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Hi,

    When an owner modifies a baffle set from an experimental and it's noted as an owner produced part, what prevents an enterprising person from designing a set and selling it for an experimental even though it perfectly fits an old Piper? I'm just wondering if it's really that easy to get around purchasing PMA parts.

  10. #30
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen View Post
    I also read that this Cowl Saver material is not PMA'd. I wonder if it makes our airplanes unairworthy?
    Not as unairworthy as Cato prop if one was to install one.

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