Carb Heat Box

[Homer Landreth]

I see it's been a year since any activity on this subject. Doing my annual now. It's time to rebuild my air box. Worn shaft and bushings. Is there any new info out there on replacement parts.
Thanks

Steve

There is a guy in Glendale AZ who works out of his hangar and he is called "The AIRBOX DOC" he repairs your airbox for a really reasonable cost and does an outstanding job. His cell phone is 623-521-9038 or use jrogg@cox.net.

[this-is-steve]

Thanks for the info. I was wanting to find the parts and fix it myself.
Steve

[Gilbert Pierce]

http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Pro...Part%20Number&

[this-is-steve]

Thanks, I looked at the McFarlane kit and the Aircraft Spruce kit for the Continental. Wondering if it would be worth the extra $$$ for the McFarlane kit. Looks like it might last longer. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge of these.
Any input is appreciated. No need to reinvent the airbox repair.

Steve

[this-is-steve]

Thanks to those that replied to my questions. I got stubborn. Just made a new shaft, bushings, control arm, and flapper valve. Installed them and painted the box and I'm ready to go. Headed to the airport to put it on and finish the annual.
Thanks

Steve

[cozzmo81]

I have a carburetor heat box that is in need of repair. I plan on using the FG-100 repair kit that others have used, but have a question regarding the detent mechanism on the side of the box. I have a heat box that has the circular detents on the side and the arm has what appears to be a rivet head that rides along the circular divets to create the detent stops. How did those of you that have done this repair address this issue since the FG-100 has the v-groove that runs along the V shaped notches on the side of the box?

[cjutzi]

help me out here guys.. I'm trying to follow this thread..
Just had my carb heat cable bracket break at the 2 rivets (nice design .. the 2 rivet holes take up 75% the bracket cross section ) ..
I'm looking for options..
Are you talking about this part from (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...crepairkit.php) which looks like this (http://mcfarlaneaviation.com/Product...rce=icontact43) since it's targeted at a continental I'm guessing not.. All I need is the bracket brazed to the shaft ..
I could buy a new box, but that really doesn't make alot of sense. or just have the bracket fabricated and braze it back on the shaft..

The detent on the box i have never did work, nor could it given what i'm looking at (looking at cozzmo81 comments above, mine is the same) so the 2 rivets on the bracket to support the detent selector doesn't make sense since it compromises the integrity of the bracket.
Input would be great.. I can add pictures tomorrow..

Curt

[Steve Pierce]

Either one will work, it is a Continental airbox. Can you post a picture? Never seen one break before.

[cjutzi]

20170602_080221.jpg 20170602_080233.jpg 20170602_080447.jpg

Hopefully I have them uploaded and show in the proper order..
Pic 1 - Broken Bracket
Pic 2 - Detent Bracket (against my Carb Heat Box)
Pic 3 - Glen Geller's Detents on his Carb Heat Box

Couple things I find curious..
1) the detent is different .. I'm curious which one is original.. My guess is mine is and my Carb Heat Cable Bracket has been replaced before
2) the detent on pic 1 shows it is really intended to apply to Glen's 14P's style of detents (his is a '52 I believe, mine is a '58/160)
3) in the spirit of keeping it as close to original and the fact that the cross hatches are not in the new boxes I would think the best thing to do is fab a bracket and braze it on to the CarbHeat flapper shaft.

Anyway, those are the pictures (hope they are in the right order)..
Again, any insights would be great..

P.S. I have never used "partial" carb heat so I'm wondering about the value of the detents.
I also pull carb heat on downwind since I was trained originally in a Cessna 172, just on my list.. so it get's worked out alot.. (~1500 times so far)..

[Steve Pierce]

Can't see enough of Glenn's to tell but I would grind off some of that weld between the shaft and the arm and see if it is brazed or welded. I believe it is welded. I would fabricate a new arm and weld it or braze it on, which ever was original. I would also remove the rivets and weld or braze that little tab as well.