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Thread: Installing RV engine baffles

  1. #81
    51-pa22's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Here is the baffle rod 14513 that Piper used with 6-32 nuts.
    Attachment 13263
    Steve, thanks for the print. If you remember , Where did you find it?

  2. #82
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    It was on the Super Cub 150 hp engine installation print.

  3. #83
    SClow303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I ended up having just at 80 hours in my baffles from start to finish, using the Vans kit to start. It seems like there are a lot of differences in the kits they send out and you just have to accept the fact that they are a good start. I really enjoyed the process of doing these and I feel I may have been a little too particular at times but to me, that’s what makes a nice project. I have to finish the bottom tensioning rods tommorow and make a couple minor trims on the rubber. I will also be adding blast tubes for the mags and putting my 3 inch I take in for the Sutton exhaust.

    0BAB3E07-9D0B-409D-9E42-5A01547F54E8.jpg 0FEF4E25-EB45-420C-8AD0-09499FA521BC.jpg A532378B-38AD-4E23-A965-23E84986DF99.jpg A7283CF6-820A-4992-94CF-41479029040B.jpg A7666291-E23B-4B5B-9957-60D7EE54111F.jpg

  4. #84
    SClow303's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I also opted to make each panel be able to come out separately. I installed machine scre plates to allow them to go in one section at a time.

    Attachment 13327

  5. #85
    J Ryd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I love (or hate) these ah-ha moments when I read something I wasn't even looking for, and realize that its either missing or not correctly done on Ol Spud. In this case its the baffle rod #14513. As I assemble my cylinder (1960 PA22-150) I see there is nothing between the lower front and rear cylinder baffle. The inner baffles have a little tab with a hole to accommodate the rod (that's missing), but the outermost baffle sections do not? I do have the intercylinder baffles supported by the "S" hook.
    Question is, should there be two rods per side? And could these be made with aluminum rode instead of SS?
    ​Jan
    1960 PA22-150 "Spud"

  6. #86
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    RVs have 2 but Piper only used one.

  7. #87
    J Ryd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    RVs have 2 but Piper only used one.
    Thank goodness. Univair wants $41 bucks each
    ​Jan
    1960 PA22-150 "Spud"

  8. #88
    Marc Davis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    Quote Originally Posted by J Ryd View Post
    Thank goodness. Univair wants $41 bucks each
    I just made mine as an "owner produced part", cost nothing. Almost every part on a shortwing can be made with a hacksaw, file, and a OA torch (slight exaggeration ). They were, after all, basically designed in 1927. Those were the tools they had.

  9. #89
    siouxpilot77's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    If someone were to place an order from McMaster carr for a rod, which rod and length would that person use ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #90
    J Ryd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Installing RV engine baffles

    I would think the the neighborhood aircraft supply might carry 3' foot 1/8" stainless rod. At least thats what im checking tomorrow. Chamfer the shoulder, a quality 6-32 die, some cutting oil, go slow. Spend a day fiddling and fitting. And still have change in my pocket over $82 Univair parts. Im in!
    Last edited by J Ryd; 02-23-2021 at 07:58 PM.
    ​Jan
    1960 PA22-150 "Spud"

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