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Thread: Q on tail post sleeve for pa-22/20

  1. #21
    Marc Davis's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    102
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    Default Re: Q on tail post sleeve for pa-22/20

    I did pretty much what both of you said. The only difference is, in this case, after you remove the spring perch, you have access to the ends of the tube. So I found it useful to use a step drill to remove the bulk of the tube from the cluster. Harbor Freight has a step drill with the same OD is the tailpost. The steps in the drill keeps the bit centered in the tube and cut away most of the wall of the old tube. Then I finished up with a die grinder with a stone bit and a cutoff wheel.
    This worked pretty well, It required a large drill motor which I happen to own (the huge right angle Milwaukee). And some muscle and time. The advantage is that it took some of the skill out of removing just the old tube and keeping it centered. Having said that, I've done what Steve said. It's simpler, and faster. If you watch the area you are grinding closely you can see when you have removed last of the the old tube wall fairly easily. Use some good light, as the last bit of the old wall is ground away there will be a color change in the grinding area as the last thin section heats up.
    The whole job is easier than it sounds, don't over think it.
    Leave some of the old weld bead in place. The thicker section will make welding the new (double wall) tailpost in easier.

  2. #22

    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    58
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    Default Re: Q on tail post sleeve for pa-22/20

    Thanks Marc and Steve---- i am still considering a top down sleeve or a new post.
    Certainly a new post would be easier to do the re-enforcing on--- but the existing post in not clearly bad or rotted out.
    I have to find a 3/4 inch grinding stone to go down in there with to clean off the melt-through from the oregional welds so the post can slide in. I have all ready done the upper half--
    (if I go that way). I have to think that the short bottom bushing is welded in somehow--- maybe around the bottom where it is flush with the tube ? I don't see any side holes that were welded through. I wonder if I was to cut the bracket off I might be able to drill the bushing to get it thinner-- and then peel it out some how ? (that sounds tricky---) a perfectly sized piloted drill might work ! But I'd probably have to make it. !

    The step drills sound good as long as I can mark a center hole accurately enough to stay on course. (and that's just up to my skill level- )
    Thanks----
    Now I have to figure out which way to do it !
    Last edited by violinmaker; 07-04-2019 at 07:26 PM.

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