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Thread: Optional rear heat muff

  1. #11
    smcnutt's Avatar
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    Dec 2007
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    Indianapolis, IN
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    Default Re: Optional rear heat muff

    Here's a picture of ours. It has the doublers on both ends. I know that we also had an issue with it having some wiggle in it that was adding to the problem. We found there's a little tab coming off of the outside elbow of the pipe that needed replaced. That tab is a support for the muff and gets sandwiched between the two halves. Ours had partially rusted away and wouldn't catch the muff. Simple fix but made all the difference.

    SDC10732.jpg
    “Common sense is in spite of, not the result of, education.”
    ― Victor Hugo

  2. #12
    Troy Hamon's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Default Re: Optional rear heat muff

    We had a new stack with a new tab but the tab as fabricated was too short to actually attach the new shroud when I was installing it. We extended the tab so we could attach the shroud and it has worked great at keeping it totally set in place. My IA also likes having these set in place at the forward end with RTV, so that likely helps as well. In fact, we used RTV to also seal the two halves along the seams.

  3. #13
    walt.buskey's Avatar
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    Apr 2012
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    Etna, NH
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    Default Re: Optional rear heat muff

    Yep, Steve, that's about the way I work, too... might take me four times, but I don't give up! LOL

    Great suggestions, thanks!

    Troy, I like the idea of RTV -- can't help but assist with vibration damping. I'll suggest it to my A&P/IA.

    smcnutt, yep, same here, except it was the aluminum of the muff that corroded away - steel tab was still there and OK. I shaped an external bridge strip of 1/16" aluminum on mine that fit over existing side flanges on the muff, went around the curve where the part that attaches to the tab was missing, and continued around a bit more. Drilled through that to attach to the tab and the muff. All fastened with high-temp locknuts & machine screws. That worked as well.

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