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Thread: First paint work with stewarts systems

  1. #1

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    Default First paint work with stewarts systems

    Got all my tail feathers blasted , repaired and phosphated. Got the first horz. stab. primed with the 2 part
    eko-prime and then tonight painted it with eko-poly in dianna creme. I got a few runs here and there on the primer---- which I sanded out. What helped a LOT was I made a rotessorie for it so I could continualy rotate it while putting the topcoat on. That would have helped on the primer too.

    This stuff goes on quite a bit different than normal solvent based paint. I think once I get the hang of it it will
    work great. And the cleanup is way easy. Since I was just spraying tubes--- I used a 15$ badger type mini
    gun from HF. When I get to larger areas like the wings- I will have to work out the details on the big paint gun. The water based PU seems to have plenty of gloss.
    Looks like it might be sensative on letting each coat's water evaporate completely before the next one so water doesnt get trapped inside the layers. Have to be careful on that as I go....... I think I used about a shot glass worth of thinned product on the stab.

    Next i will be priming the other tail surfaces.

    So far so good.

    Tim B.

  2. #2
    Stephen's Avatar
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    Nov 2007
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    Default Re: First paint work with stewarts systems

    Good luck, show us your results.
    "You can only tie the record for flying low."

  3. #3
    Frank Green's Avatar
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    Default Re: First paint work with stewarts systems

    One huge mistake I see many people do with Stewarts thinking they don't need many precautions because it's water based. WRONG! The solvent is water but the paint is still bad for you. A good respirator or preferred remote air hood and full skin cover mandatory. And don't do it in your attached garage or cellar. Have concern for your family as well. Read the MSDSs.
    -Super Stub-

  4. #4

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    Default Re: First paint work with stewarts systems

    When I used to do Imron--- I would seal up the bldg.--- open one end door for an inlet and run the fans in the other end
    for exhaust--- cover head to toe and use new mask and filters. And MAKE SURE you have no leaks in your mask....
    I like that it doesn't have a servere stink that the solvent based has..... but probably equally poisonous. MUCH nicer to
    clean up after though. I have a positive pressure remote air unit I could use-- but regular respirators seem ok if used carefully--- I have seen people hospitalized from breathing a little from a leaking , poor fitted mask.

    Tim

  5. #5
    rocket's Avatar
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    Dec 2010
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    Default Re: First paint work with stewarts systems

    I've used all the chemicals associated with aviation and took PPE equipment seriously... except for that one time. Google chemical pneumonia. It took three years to heal and my lungs wil never be as they were. Stoddard solvent.

    If I don't die doing something stupid in an airplane it will be coughing to death. Spent the last hour hacking up remnants of the local crud this morning; when I get it I get it bad.

    That being said I know that embracing Stewerts System as a covering in aircraft early on most likly saved me more then a few years. True one must be cautious with the topcoat but the lack of organic solvents in the paint is really a life saver. Not having any dangerous chemicals in the glue etc is a big plus when one considers we spend much more time in the fabric installation then top coating.

    Then there is Oritex

    Lately I've taken to rubbing shellac on wood thinned with pure grain alcohol. Easy peasy and safe as long as one doesn't start sipping the alcohol, you know checking for purity etc


    Rocket

  6. #6

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    Default Re: First paint work with stewarts systems

    That experience sounds like how ive heard chlorine gas exposure goes..... or welding over brake cleaner--- (phosgene)
    I used to paint several cars per year with imron. Maybe I was just lucky---- If I could smell ANY through the respirator--
    then it was time to change to a new mask unit. The 3M silicone body ones always seemed to be better fitting than the earlier
    ones.

    I find I like shellack very much. Its only vice is that it can be damaged by water. But its also easy to repair . Another nice
    thing about it -- you can overcoat it with linseed oil, or most varnishes. I particularly like taking the purple shellack and
    tinting it transtint organic tints to turn the shellack into whatever color you need. When you thin your shellack--- it works
    best to use 100% pure alcohol. If it has water in it--- that little bit of water will prevent the organic dies from fully going
    into solution--- which leaves little color freckles in the mix. Woodcraft sells water free alcohol--- just kind of expensive.
    (it also sucks for making model airplane fuel--- the residual water wont let the oil dissolve)

    So far I like the stewarts. I think by the time I get to doing fabric topcoat--- I will be able to get a finish all most a smooth and even as imron. (more or less) I don't think I will be as picky about this as I would be on a car's paint. But I will get it as good as I know how.(limited by my skill level I guess- like all of us---)

    Have you looked into any naturopathic helps for the lung problem ? The reaction sounds like a COPD type response----
    Some doctors believe that COPD isn't a real disease--- but that its the bodys immune system over reacting to some contaminant that settles in the air sacks. So the treatment is really a treatment for an autoimmune situation. I wonder if
    all the crap in the chemtrails has caused COPD. They are loaded with aluminum and barium particulates. All that crap
    eventually falls out and settles on the surface where we breathe it. It looks like it is also contaminating the soils--- maybe
    eventually preventing crops from growing. (nice) You might check Dr. Joel Wallach on youtube and see if he has a video
    on how to clear COPD. Might be worth trying as all of his ideas are based around nutrition.

    Tim

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