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Thread: Wag-a-bong wings

  1. #11
    Wag-builder's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    Yes since I made my spars I beveled them to the same shape as the rib. Now let me ask you what your plan is for fuel tanks and how you want to mount them? The way it is on the plans there is a clamp that goes around the spar and it will not work if you bevel the tops of the spars, but I built my own tanks and worked out my own mounting system. My wings are in Tennessee and I am on MAryland, but I will take some pictures the next time I am down there.

    Steve

  2. #12

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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    Thanks Steve,
    I see what you are talking about as far as the fuel tank installation is concerned, thank you for pointing that out. I don’t see where beveling the spars is called for anywhere in the plans, no difference between the forward and rear spar faces. This leads me to believe unbeveled spars are satisfactory. What are your thoughts on that?

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    Piper used just rectangular spars and that is what is called for on the plans. It is not a problem and just leaves a little void at the top that you will need to get varnish in, but not a big deal. I can tell you that sliding the ribs on the spar that fit the way mine did was a little bit of a pain in the rear, so I probably wouldn't bevel them again. Just a note on the spar slots they tell you to double the 1/4" square stock on a couple of ribs, that is so you can trim the slot for the ribs that have the plywood doublers, but if you just adjust your fixture to allow for the thickness of the plywood your life will be a lot easier and not try to trim the opening on a finished rib. Another thing I did was to trim the gussets so you don't have a big square corner hanging out in the breeze. They made them that way just to make it easy, but I didn't like the looks and it saved ounces by cutting them to a 45 and removing the unused material.

    Another little hit for cutting the thin plywood and thin aluminum for the ailerons. I used a paper cutter from an office supply store, it was pretty cheap and works like a charm and still use it today for small sheet metal parts because it is portable and I don't have to keep running back to the 52" shear every time I need to trim something. I also used flush rivets on my ailerons because I didn't like the universal head rivets. It was a lot more work because first you have to drill, or punch each hole, then de-bur each hole then dimple each hole, then you can put the rivets in.

    I did not buy a kit or any manufactured parts , but I would just buy the aileron spar and control horn and hinges for the aileron if I were going to do it again. Same thing with the fuel tanks, I could have bought them from Wag-Aero for about the same money that I have in them and not worked near as hard. But I am a homebuilder and wanted to be able to say I built that and not assembled that. I also have to tools that I needed and didn't have to buy them or it would have been cheaper to just buy the parts.

    Hope this helps you a little.

    Steve

  4. #14

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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    I am near Dunnellon, Florida.I bought capstrip and spars from Carlson in Ohio. http://carlsonaircraft.com/aluminum-shapes/ They are just non certified Piper type spars and an extruded alum capstrip.I made a rib jig and used a metal shrinker. . They are pop riveted w/ a pneumatic gun. Very simple. You end up w/ a rib a lot like a Dakota Cub rib. My ribs are done and the rear spars are drilled. Start drilling the front ones tomorrow. If I had to do it over again I would do it the same way. Works for me. Larry

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    I guess it depend on what you goal is and what you are comfortable working with. As it turns out, I happen to have the left wing off of my Tri-pacer right now and the tip rib (the smallest rib) removed because of a poor repair years ago. So I am replacing it with the Dakota Cob tip rib, and decided to compare the ribs.
    Dakota Cub tip rib 14 ounces
    Factory Piper tip rib 8 ounces
    Wag-a-bond full wood rib varnished 7 ounces
    Where I am going with this is the wood wing is lighter and that matters to me because a light plane flies better than a heavy plane. I am also comfortable working with wood, because I have a 26 year old wood homebuilt and have no problems with it. I am also comfortable with aluminum and steel, but I chose wood because it was the lightest material and I love the look of the finished wood work.

    Cheers,

    Steve

  6. #16

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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    Quote Originally Posted by Wag-builder View Post
    I guess it depend on what you goal is and what you are comfortable working with. As it turns out, I happen to have the left wing off of my Tri-pacer right now and the tip rib (the smallest rib) removed because of a poor repair years ago. So I am replacing it with the Dakota Cob tip rib, and decided to compare the ribs.
    Dakota Cub tip rib 14 ounces
    Factory Piper tip rib 8 ounces
    Wag-a-bond full wood rib varnished 7 ounces
    Where I am going with this is the wood wing is lighter and that matters to me because a light plane flies better than a heavy plane. I am also comfortable working with wood, because I have a 26 year old wood homebuilt and have no problems with it. I am also comfortable with aluminum and steel, but I chose wood because it was the lightest material and I love the look of the finished wood work.

    Cheers,

    Steve
    Interesting. You got me curious. I weighed my ( Carlson) full rib. 12.75 oz. Tip rib 10.35 oz. Lighter than Dakota, heavier than Piper, LOTS heavier than yours! Larry

  7. #17

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    Default Re: Wag-a-bong wings

    Quote Originally Posted by Wag-builder View Post
    Piper used just rectangular spars and that is what is called for on the plans. It is not a problem and just leaves a little void at the top that you will need to get varnish in, but not a big deal. I can tell you that sliding the ribs on the spar that fit the way mine did was a little bit of a pain in the rear, so I probably wouldn't bevel them again. Just a note on the spar slots they tell you to double the 1/4" square stock on a couple of ribs, that is so you can trim the slot for the ribs that have the plywood doublers, but if you just adjust your fixture to allow for the thickness of the plywood your life will be a lot easier and not try to trim the opening on a finished rib. Another thing I did was to trim the gussets so you don't have a big square corner hanging out in the breeze. They made them that way just to make it easy, but I didn't like the looks and it saved ounces by cutting them to a 45 and removing the unused material.

    Another little hit for cutting the thin plywood and thin aluminum for the ailerons. I used a paper cutter from an office supply store, it was pretty cheap and works like a charm and still use it today for small sheet metal parts because it is portable and I don't have to keep running back to the 52" shear every time I need to trim something. I also used flush rivets on my ailerons because I didn't like the universal head rivets. It was a lot more work because first you have to drill, or punch each hole, then de-bur each hole then dimple each hole, then you can put the rivets in.

    I did not buy a kit or any manufactured parts , but I would just buy the aileron spar and control horn and hinges for the aileron if I were going to do it again. Same thing with the fuel tanks, I could have bought them from Wag-Aero for about the same money that I have in them and not worked near as hard. But I am a homebuilder and wanted to be able to say I built that and not assembled that. I also have to tools that I needed and didn't have to buy them or it would have been cheaper to just buy the parts.

    Hope this helps you a little.

    Steve
    Thanks so much for all of that information Steve, it is greatly appreciated. I also had to replace a rib on my Tri-Pacer awhile back. I went with a Univair stamped rib.

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