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Thread: Rudder arm

  1. #1

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    Default Rudder arm

    I want to verify the correct rudder arm for my 1950 Pacer with a Scott 3200 tail wheel. The drawings CD says the assy part no. is 1140. Acft Spruce and other sources state that has a 1” shank. Without disassembling it, I don’t believe mine is that big. It’s hard to tell in the tight space underneath the wrap around fabric. I see there is also a rudder arm available that looks pretty much the same, but with a 3/4” shank. Could that be the correct one? I just want the best chance of having the correct one on hand before disassembling.

  2. #2
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    I don't remember the exact size but I do know that I like the Dakota Cub part the best for fit and the fact that it is a machined part, not cast like the original and is stronger so it doesn't wear at the steering and the mounting holes like the cast part does.
    https://dakotacub.com/index.php?rout...product_id=129

  3. #3
    Southern Aero's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    Its actually a little over 3/4" for a slip fit in the 7/8 x .035 rudder spar, or post as depicted in the prints. I suspect a misprint on the Spruce part ....... But Steve, I have run across these before with a "wear bushing" in the steering chain holes. Was like a flair on both sides to lock in place and made a good wear surface for the attaching links. Looked a little too consistent to be done in the field. Thot maybe some were produced that way......... Was a good idea either way.

    But anything Dakota makes is a nice part.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    Hey Steve. Just checked with Dakota Cub on this part. It is aluminum. Shank is 1 3/4" long and is 3/4" in diameter. The 3/4" diameter shank (from Univair) is 1/16th too big for my Clipper. Did you put this one on your Clipper?

  5. #5
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    All Piper rudders are the same except the J3 which has a slightly different shape. The only thing I can think is someone repaired your rudder and turned down the Scott steering arm. I just measured 4 steering arms I have here and they are all 3/4". I have not installed the Dakota Cub steering arm in a Clipper but have installed several in Super Cubs and they fit fine. I would look for a tube inside of a tube repair at the base of your rudder.

  6. #6

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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    Thanks Steve ... and do what then with a tube inside of a tube repair ... My "old" arm measures 11/16" in diameter. Could I have the Dakota Cub shank milled down 1/16"?

  7. #7
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    That is what I would do.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    One more question. The stops for rudder travel are two different lengths which restricts rudder travel on one side. Thinking on cutting the longer one to match up with the shorter one. I believe this will allow my rudder pedals to finally straighten out! Rudder travel after the cut will not interfere with the elevator on either side. Planning on using a Dremel tool to cut. What do you think?

  9. #9
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    You can center the rudder pedals with the rudder by adjusting the cables. Cutting one stop is not going to do anything to correct your issue.
    You also need to check the rudder throw against the TCDS before you start cutting a stop if that is what you think you need to do.

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Rudder arm

    Thanks. I misspoke ... will get the rudders even with the cables. What I meant to say is the cutting of the post will even out the rudder travel. At the moment left rudder deflection is 32 degrees and right rudder deflection is 16 degrees. Cutting the longer post will make both rudder deflections 32 degrees. Have checked TC. Should be 16 degrees deflection, but I cant get that. Would rather have them be even and have more rudder travel than uneven travel.

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