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Thread: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

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  1. #1
    Alessandro's Avatar
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    Default Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    During the restoration of my Tripacer I changed the nose gear o-rings but there is a small leak, problem common, I red.

    An italian mechanic suggest me to use the Quad ring used on Pa28, old Piper number 484-770, new number 485-315.

    It would seem that these Quad Rings have much more resistance.

    I found the "commercial" number of these Quad Rings, 4222 or Q222 (thickness 3,53 mm) and 4325 or Q4235 (thickness 5,33 mm).

    Whit the 4325 is possible fix the ring without the "leather ring" (sorry I don't know the correct name).

    During this week I will have the new ring and I will test.


    I hope this test will be useful for everyone.

    Ciao!
    Alex.

  2. #2
    Subsonic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Alessandro, you rock. My Tri-Pacer and I can't wait to hear the results of your test.
    -Subsonic

  3. #3
    walt.buskey's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Ditto -- after my engine gets pulled, my nosegear's next on the list.

  4. #4
    Old3pacer's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Me 2 - thanks

  5. #5
    Alessandro's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Update.

    The 5,33 is too high, the 3,53 is ok. But it is necessary the “leather ring” as standard.

    (I speak about the smaller oring, that one that work on the chromed piston).

    The best thickness probably is in the middle, but I didn’t found.

    In the PA28 they told me that they don’t use the leather ring, probably that have a different size.

    As feedback from PA28 customer experience the resistance seem very high respect standard oring.

    We refill with oil and nitrogen (15 bar till now).

    I hope this weekend we install on the aircraft (I have 2 nose gear and now on the ‘22 there is the “old” one).

    I hope to give you a good feedback!
    If course, some grass bumpy taxiways are necessary to understand if it is good or not.

    We are studying now something to protect the chromed piston from mosquitoes, grass, etc.
    Something like car driveshaft repair kit.... I don’t know.

    Thank you.

    Ciao!

    Alex.


    Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando ShortWingPipers.Org

  6. #6
    Alessandro's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear


  7. #7
    Glen Geller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Hi Alessandro,
    Good work so far.
    I thought about a convoluted boot (like on motorcycle forks) to protect the nose strut from contamination, but have found after nearly twenty years that is not really necessary.
    The leather seal was a wiper to keep dirt and sand etc from damaging the O-rings that seal the strut.
    This has been superseded by a X-ring, the quad seal you mentioned.
    It comes as a length of material, you need to very carefully cut it with a razor blade to length, so it just fits in the groove.
    It's not supporting the strut, so if you cut a bit too much it still works but it's best to get it ~1% too long and a snug fit in the groove.
    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...trutjmpa22.php
    in Europe:
    https://www.aircraftspruce.eu/j-m-pi...t-seal-kit.htm

    The SWPC CD has good drawings of the nose gear assy, and the parts manual shows it poorly on 1G16 ~ 1G18
    http://ohio.shortwingpiperclub.org/M...al_752-450.pdf

    Anything that might damage the tough chrome of the strut will really be hell on your aluminum prop. Stay away from that stuff if possible.
    I keep an oil squirt can and rags/paper towels in my baggage compartment supply basket (with oil, some tools, lockwire, duct tape, hand cleaner, towels etc.)
    The oil squirt can contains red hydraulic fluid, same stuff that is in the strut (and brakes) and what you use to pre-wet the seals during assembly.
    Before and after each flight, and especially after landing somewhere dusty or buggy, I squirt some hydraulic fluid up into the seal area at the top of the exposed chrome, and wipe it clean with a rag, it is a solvent for itself and dried smashed bugs. Then I squirt a little more in there and wipe it around with my fingers, to rewet the wiper.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/38G...P7A1P:20501231



    I have gone over ten years without a seal failure, while my buddies tend to get half that life without following my advice.

    A santé,
    Glen in Oregon
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Glen Geller; 10-28-2020 at 05:09 PM.
    Glen Geller
    1955 PA22-150 "One For Papa!"

  8. #8
    Dirt MrBill's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Quote Originally Posted by Glen Geller View Post
    Hi Alessandro,
    Good work so far.
    I thought about a convoluted boot (like on motorcycle forks) to protect the nose strut from contamination, but have found after nearly twenty years that is not really necessary.
    The leather seal was a wiper to keep dirt and sand etc from damaging the O-rings that seal the strut.
    This has been superseded by a X-ring, the quad seal you mentioned.
    It comes as a length of material, you need to very carefully cut it with a razor blade to length, so it just fits in the groove.
    It's not supporting the strut, so if you cut a bit too much it still works but it's best to get it ~1% too long and a snug fit in the groove.

    A santé,
    Glen in Oregon
    Good advice Glen. Looking at the Piper drawing the length of the wiper to be purchased is 5-1/4".
    The one I cut a few months back just touches the 5-1/2" mark. I cannot say that that is where I was losing the oil, probably not..er Most probably not.
    This time around I started my tear down while my mind was occupied elsewhere and I pulled the bolt at the block/tube assy. and gave it a couple wacks then woke up to what I was doing. Well without knowing I caused the plug, that is also attached by that bolt, to slide up to the other end of the tube. When I pulled it apart there lay this plug that I never saw before, ha! It does not show the plug in the Piper Tri-p manual and the way the Piper drawing is it is kinda hard to pick up there. You would think that the plug's O-ring would be included along with the other serviceable items. I am surprised oil does not pour out the bottom when that O-ring dies?
    Am I missing or confusing the layout? I waited for this to really bother me before posting another dumb thought here but most likely not long enough.

  9. #9
    Glen Geller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Quote Originally Posted by MrBill View Post
    This time around I started my tear down while my mind was occupied elsewhere and I pulled the bolt at the block/tube assy. and gave it a couple wacks then woke up to what I was doing. Well without knowing I caused the plug, that is also attached by that bolt, to slide up to the other end of the tube. When I pulled it apart there lay this plug that I never saw before, ha! It does not show the plug in the Piper Tri-p manual and the way the Piper drawing is it is kinda hard to pick up there. You would think that the plug's O-ring would be included along with the other serviceable items. I am surprised oil does not pour out the bottom when that O-ring dies?
    Am I missing or confusing the layout? I waited for this to really bother me before posting another dumb thought here but most likely not long enough.
    Bill,
    Can you post a pic, a sketch, the Piper drawing with some scribbles indicating this mystery plug of which you speak?
    Uncertain what you are talking about.

    Best,
    GG
    Glen Geller
    1955 PA22-150 "One For Papa!"

  10. #10
    Dirt MrBill's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quad ring Tripacer Nose gear

    Oleo.jpg
    The Plug looks like a little piston and its wrist pin would be the bolt that holds the chrome tube to the aluminum block. It's top faces up and has an O-ring instead of a piston ring.
    I sure haven't yet figured out what keeps the pressure back but I am pretty sure it is not the o-ring in the plug because mine was old, hard and flat on one side so it would have failed my bubble test a few days ago and it is still holding strong.
    The drawing must be deceiving. A good cut away pic would be nice. Anyway, the plug must be there to keep it from getting packed with dirt/corn stalks...er whatever the farmer has in that field.

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