Trim Indicator Support Panel

[stevesaircraft(Bri)]

Thanks Brian. Next question. The guide on mine is free at the aft end. Seems it should be fixed to the structure and canted towards the pully ?

Jerry

Free is the way Piper did it… To be honest, I have no idea why Piper thought that was a necessary part.. Pretty much a useless piece..

Brian

[CTJER]

Free is the way Piper did it… To be honest, I have no idea why Piper thought that was a necessary part.. Pretty much a useless piece..

Brian

Brian,

just sent an email per or telcon this AM.

Jerry

[Subsonic]

I have the headlining about half pulled down. Clearly not original. Very heavy faux leather or something like that. A foot long cut with a new utility knlfe dulls the blade enough to require replacement. I've found the bows safety wired to the structure. I'm thinking of not reinstalling the dome light and speaker including the plywood panel. Any thoughts?

Jerry

I was told by someone on this site the arch supports over the front door free stand in the channel on the ends above the door and over the drivers window. They don't require attachment to the structure, and allows the headliner to be stretched a bit forward or aft when fitting the headliner. I installed my homemade arch supports this way and it appears to work well.

[Subsonic]

I left out speaker and have not yet reinstalled light. I did leave the plywood support panel.
Two of the headliner support bows attach to the plywood panel. You would have to make new single piece bows if you leave out. At least on TriPacer … maybe Colt is different in that regard

Bryan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made a new, shorter plywood panel to accept my original dome light fixture, a new smaller 3" speaker, as well as allow for a single piece full width arch support at the front of the speaker plywood panel. headliner arch supports1.JPGheadliner arch supports2.JPG It works well. I like being able to turn on the speaker sitting in my hangar as I do other prep to fly and listen to ATIS anytime without having to don a headset. I made the single piece arch support to make the installation of the headliner simpler. The ends of that support and the ones in front of it float in the channels on either side.

[Subsonic]

A couple more pics as it was going in.headliner arch support4.JPGheadliner arch support5.JPG The last one is without the light fixture but I've got the liner glued in and prior to shrinking.

[CTJER]

I am reworking the bows. They are not as unsalvageable as originally thought. One or two only require the ends that mate with the fuselage to be redone as I found them to be corroded away. The previous installer had safety wired on extension made from the headlining itself (rolled like.a Tootsie roll)which was very heavy vinyl. I'll do something similar. My issue now is how to interface the wing root remote instrument lights with the headlining. Any guidance on how to get the wire through the headlining is appreciated.
Jerry

[Subsonic]

I am reworking the bows. They are not as unsalvageable as originally thought. One or two only require the ends that mate with the fuselage to be redone as I found them to be corroded away. The previous installer had safety wired on extension made from the headlining itself (rolled like.a Tootsie roll)which was very heavy vinyl. I'll do something similar. My issue now is how to interface the wing root remote instrument lights with the headlining. Any guidance on how to get the wire through the headlining is appreciated.
Jerry

Since I did this last summer, I'll comment.

First, I'm not a fan of your plan to roll some sort of patch and safety wire???? to the rusted out arch support. Sounds like the stuff you will be cursed for in your grave to me.

If you have the drawing CD, you can go to the correct part number for each of the 8 stations for each of the unique arch supports and print out that drawing full size. Sounds harder than it is. 15 to 30 minutes to sort that out. Then buy 1/4" diameter alum. tubing with a 1/8" hole in the middle. I like 5052 or 6061. Super light. Bend in shape of full size drawing to replace your rusted out steel parts. Hammer the ends flat and drill a #4 hole. I had to do it twice for two of 5 positions I replaced as I wasn't satisfied with less than perfect. The first two had me fussing and cussing. The next three went pretty easy. My headliner looks really nice now. Aluminum bows will outlive you and your children. Cheap and easy to bend. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the side of my workbench 2 x 4, smoothed the hole, flaring the entrance and exit to create a nice smooth hole, and used it to bend the nice radius in each bow by hand. Just feed in a little aluminum tubing, bend a bid, feed in, bend a bit, repeat. Watch your lines as the ends will get out of phase. Twist to adjust phasing angle from one side to the other. Play with it. Very malleable and easy to work with. Play some easy going music as you do this, and drink a lemon soda water. You just move an inch or even half inch and give a little pressure to create a smooth bend. People have used pulleys and large diameter iron pipes to do the same thing.

Next. Remove the light fixture and thread the remote light wires through the fabric then reconnect the housings.

Hope this helps.
-Subsonic

[CTJER]

Since I did this last summer, I'll comment.

First, I'm not a fan of your plan to roll some sort of patch and safety wire???? to the rusted out arch support. Sounds like the stuff you will be cursed for in your grave to me.

If you have the drawing CD, you can go to the correct part number for each of the 8 stations for each of the unique arch supports and print out that drawing full size. Sounds harder than it is. 15 to 30 minutes to sort that out. Then buy 1/4" diameter alum. tubing with a 1/8" hole in the middle. I like 5052 or 6061. Super light. Bend in shape of full size drawing to replace your rusted out steel parts. Hammer the ends flat and drill a #4 hole. I had to do it twice for two of 5 positions I replaced as I wasn't satisfied with less than perfect. The first two had me fussing and cussing. The next three went pretty easy. My headliner looks really nice now. Aluminum bows will outlive you and your children. Cheap and easy to bend. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the side of my workbench 2 x 4, smoothed the hole, flaring the entrance and exit to create a nice smooth hole, and used it to bend the nice radius in each bow by hand. Just feed in a little aluminum tubing, bend a bid, feed in, bend a bit, repeat. Watch your lines as the ends will get out of phase. Twist to adjust phasing angle from one side to the other. Play with it. Very malleable and easy to work with. Play some easy going music as you do this, and drink a lemon soda water. You just move an inch or even half inch and give a little pressure to create a smooth bend. People have used pulleys and large diameter iron pipes to do the same thing.

Next. Remove the light fixture and thread the remote light wires through the fabric then reconnect the housings.

Hope this helps.
-Subsonic

You are probably correctbon about the bow fix. My solution was to use a catapiller type grommet inserted in the bow channel and heat shrink in place. Not working out so well.

in regard to the light. Is the wire disconnected in the light fixture?

Jerry

[Subsonic]

You are probably correctbon about the bow fix. My solution was to use a catapiller type grommet inserted in the bow channel and heat shrink in place. Not working out so well.

in regard to the light. Is the wire disconnected in the light fixture?

Jerry

No, not in the light fixture...I don't exactly remember but it wasn't difficult. I seem to recall some connectors that had a scissor kind of action, that were wrapped in friction tape. I think they were original equipment. My memory is only good with really hard problems now that take considered thought to solve, and those lights weren't in that category.

[CTJER]

Old headlining removed. Found arches, bows, safety wired to fuselage tubing. Upon attempting install of new lining found having to do something similar, at least to act as fixturing until edges cemented in place. Otherwise arches wobble to the point of making it difficult to impossible to position the next arch. Any comments and advise appreciated. Work on hold for now for other reasons.
Jerry