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Thread: Tri Pacer Brakes

  1. #11

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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    Thanks again John, I had ended up assembling as you now describe. Very simply the part nos. go to the outside, readable as you noted, leaving the extra clearance between the shoe and torque plate due to the slight offset in the shoe casting.

    Thanks, Dick
    Pacer15p

  2. #12
    Jim's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    Hi,

    If you've riveted new pads on your shoes you should also think about checking, and if necessary, making them the same radius as your drums. Put the shoes in the drums and determine if they make contact through their whole length. Do they just rub on their ends, maybe just the middle of the shoe hits. You can check by pinching a paper strip or two between the shoe and the drum and try pulling it out.

    In the old days brake shops would radius the new shoes after a quick drum measure to make sure things were as best they could be. If yours need a little attention, they might not, rough sandpaper cuts shoe pads fairly easily. I've always scuffed off the glaze in the drums with 80 or so paper before assembly too.

    I've been using the stock drum brakes for 27 years and every now and then, can't explain why, they seem to work just fine. I did convert to the pedals when I did the conversion back then though.

    The heat sinks around the drums are important too. Don't be fooled by somebody saying you can glue them on with JB Weld, it's a heat sink that needs intimate contact, not just free of rattling noises. There are several ways of dealing with loose heat sinks, do a real fix if need be. Drums brakes need everything going for them to work acceptably well, you'll not want surprises later on.

  3. #13

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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    Hey there,
    Looking to get into my brake system and researching Brake hose P/N's in the IPC and i noticed my PA-22-150 has a return spring on the brake pedal/arm under the seat and the IPC doesn't ??? Is this suppossed to be there? or has someboby else added it ??? Thanks, Great Resource
    Mike

  4. #14
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    I think it is original. From memory all the 150 hp Tri-Pacers had this spring.

  5. #15

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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    Thanks for the Picture,I just found my SWPC CD and the drawing shows the spring. Guess i should have looked a little deeper. Thanks for the quick response-Now if I can find the correct fittings to make my gear leg hoses without spending a bunch of gas money (Univair) Mike

  6. #16

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    Default Re: Tri Pacer Brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Dick; I guess you ARE indeed correct...the shoes are the SAME LENGTH and the associated parts ARE located straight across the centerline. How they are "handed" is because of the way they are cast. There is an offset cast into the shoes to properly space them away from the backing plate. That is, the WIDER SIDE of each shoe ass'y being closest to the backing plate. Incorrectly installed, the brake cylinder bars will not match up to the tangs on the shoes correctly and the shoes will scrub on the drum (They sometimes do anyway!). If I had correctly mentioned that I was referring to "left and right" while assuming "straight up" (12:00 position on each side) as the reference, I would have been "acceptably clear" (I think!). Mea culpa. This explains naming them "Rt and Lt" as to which way the casting is "offline" when viewed from the "outside". [Hmmm. I wonder if I am going to reget saying that???]

    So, When the brakes are installed on the gearleg so that the inlet fitting for each brake line is in the extreme-most "aft" position...on the RIGHT SIDE Brake, the "R" shoe is DOWN (or RIGHT OF -CLOCKWISE TO- the pivot); on the LEFT SIDE Brake, the "L" shoe is DOWN.

    On a correctly installed setup with original Piper shoes, BOTH the shoes have the part numbers readable from the "wheel and tire" side of the brake (got a complete setup right here in my fat hand). If later Piper castings and/or aftermarket replacement part shoes are different, then I am unaware of that!

    If you are assembling the shoes to the backplates on the bench, view with the pivot at 12:00 and the "R" shoe goes on the left, and the "L" shoe on the right...for both brakes. Then when they are installed on the gearleg in the original Piper positions (straight AFT of the axle), the shoes are correct as described two paragraphs up.

    So sorry for the confusion. Strictly MY fault! BTW, all these brakes work perfectly well no matter HOW the units are "timed" to the axle. Piper used "straight back" as the brake line inlet position to best protect the "plumbing" from ground damage by hiding everything behind the relatively "massive" axle structure, but you can occasionally find them installed in different positions (sometimes to clean up a non-standard wheelpant installation, sometimes because they were just installed wrong, and anything -logical or not- in between).


    Mike; Don't overlook that the "leak downstream of the parking brake" may actually be IN the parking brake itself. There were two different makes of P. Brake valves originally, and they use different O-rings internally (fortunately, you only waste a couple bucks if you buy both kinds!). In a LOT of cases, you also can spot a cracked flare somewhere under a B-nut. Why these so many times do not leak enough to readily spot where the problem is, is beyond me. Also, its not uncommon to find that you MAY have old, old rubber brake lines up inside the belly to allow the brake lines to flex at the gear attach points, that "balloon" when you mash on the brakes. That will cause similar "creep away" issues. Them puppies are about 70 bux per side.

    MANY PEOPLE do their runups "on the move", steering with feet, braking with one hand and "checking" with the other.
    Having a brake issue and the search brought this old thread up... after getting totally confused and reading this the third time I finally got this Left and Right thing down.. or up..LOL I think this pic will help the next person figure out the left and rights or ups and downs. 9 is right and 7 is left, or on the right wheel with the brakeline inlet AFT of the gear spindle, 9 or Right is up and 7down, and left wheel 9 or Right is down and 7 or Left is up.

    Last edited by PA-16; 08-30-2021 at 12:39 AM.

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