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Thread: Fuel Selector Repair

  1. #291
    Glen Geller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    Thank you friends for the suggestions and offers, I will consider them.
    I want to dig in a little bit more and get a look at the valve. I'll either open the boot cowl (just closed it after replacing the starter cable, and all cowling back on - nurts!) or slice open the fabric a little bit in the cabin. Which I'll have to do if I replace the valve.
    I really appreciate this group, y'all are good folks.
    GG

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    Glen Geller
    1955 PA22-150 "One For Papa!"

  2. #292

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    What kind of panel is covering your selector? Looks like hard plastic? Mine has carpet there, I cut the carpet around the selector so I could access the fittings and fuel lines easily, and used velcro to secure the carpet cutout back into place, maybe you could cut that panel the same way so you can get the selector out?

  3. #293
    Glen Geller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    It's just the interior fabric that the placard disk screws on to.

    GG

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    Glen Geller
    1955 PA22-150 "One For Papa!"

  4. #294

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by dgapilot View Post
    So there are lots of posts on the fuel valve. The basic fuel valve is a commercial 108-HD-1/4IPT purchased from Imperial Brass as shown on drawing 11383. The valve listed in Aircraft Spruce Part Number 6749 is an Anderson Brass 210CL valve which is a direct replacement for the 108-HD-1/4IPT valve listed on 11383. Now, replacing a commercial valve with another commercial valve designed to perform the same function and has the exact same dimensions sounds like a minor alteration to me, but if someone wants options, you could get a Field Approval for it, or I could do a DER approval if you think it is a Major Alteration.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbert Pierce View Post
    By exact same dimensions do you mean direct fit? The valve can be installed without any changes in plumbing and attachment but could look different?


    The Anderson Brass valve that Aircraft Spruce sells as the 6749 valve, is identical size shape look feel to the Piper valve, if that helps, I just posted a picture of the Piper valve and the 6749 valve in my hand a couple posts back. That Piper valve is the correct replacement for the 11383 valve, although the Allen valve was introduced in the late nineteen eighties and Piper stopped selling the brass valve, but it is still a good option to replace the original brass plug 11383 valve.

    It is also the same size as the early plastic plug Piper valve you had in this picture, were you having problems with the plastic plug in that valve?







    Left , Piper 77413 plastic plug valve stamped 1st quarter 1976, Piper replacement valve for the brass plug 11383 valve, new, extra parts came with plane, available if somebody needs one, 45 years old but turns free and smooth, positive solid detents, no AD, logbook entry install.

    Right , Aircraft spruce 6749 valve bought 2017, also available, delrin plug drilled for Right, Both, Left, Off
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PA-16; 04-05-2021 at 07:31 AM.

  5. #295
    Glen Geller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    Walt, I sent you a pm, I would like that fuel selector please!
    GG

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    Glen Geller
    1955 PA22-150 "One For Papa!"

  6. #296
    walt.buskey's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    On the way. And you thought I was kidding when I said I had a drawer marked "Airplane Stuff"!

    DSC09626.jpg
    Last edited by walt.buskey; 04-04-2021 at 06:54 PM.

  7. #297
    Gilbert Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    Post 241 by PA16: I would start by tearing all that out and run new fuel line and mount the selector where you can reach it. I would not fly that plane, even if its experimental I would not fly it like that. The long rod to the fuel selector is John Denver 2
    This looks very dangerous to me, that selector takes a little force to get the bearings to move in in order to turn the selector, have you moved it or is it a BOTH selector and you never move it?


    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbert Pierce View Post
    Like Lukas, when I put the right tank in I left the selector valve as it was originally and connected the right tank inlet where the nose tank inlet was. I did that on purpose to eliminate the convoluted right tank routing that causes problems in those installation where the valve is next to your left knee. Like Luks’s, mine was approved by the FAA and conforms to the airplanes properly altered state.

    John Denver’s fuel valve was behind his shoulder. It was so screwed up he had to clamp a pair of vise grips on it to turn it.
    I don’t know what your issue with Clipper valve control is. That Clipper fuel valve arrangement is the way it came from the factory. There are no service bulletins, AD’s Placards other than Left-Nose-Off-Off. I Never have had a problem with mine in 1700+ hours of flying it. Plus I don’t have the long fuel line routing and issues with the right tank on takeoff or maneuvering that the PA20 and 22 has. It’s also easy to get to if need be. Worn detents and leaky valves is the major problems I see.
    Incidentally it’s not any different from hundreds of Cubs .
    I had about 15 minutes to spare at the hangar before I had to head to the house so out of curiosity I removed the cotter pin in the fuel selector rod at the Allen valve. As you can see in the attached picture there is no wear on that pin. It is shiny where it passed thru the Allen valve shaft. The CAD plating is still in intact. The selector rod is snug where it slips over Allen valve shaft. All the cotter pin does is keep the rod from backing off the shaft. That pin has been there for 1700 hours and 21 years. The attached pictures is of both sides of the pin.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Gilbert Pierce; 04-06-2021 at 04:36 PM.

  8. #298

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    Default Re: Fuel Selector Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbert Pierce View Post
    Post 241 by PA16: I would start by tearing all that out and run new fuel line and mount the selector where you can reach it. I would not fly that plane, even if its experimental I would not fly it like that. The long rod to the fuel selector is John Denver 2
    This looks very dangerous to me, that selector takes a little force to get the bearings to move in in order to turn the selector, have you moved it or is it a BOTH selector and you never move it?




    I had about 15 minutes to spare at the hangar before I had to head to the house so out of curiosity I removed the cotter pin in the fuel selector rod at the Allen valve. As you can see in the attached picture there is no wear on that pin. It is shiny where it passed thru the Allen valve shaft. The CAD plating is still in intact. The selector rod is snug where it slips over Allen valve shaft. All the cotter pin does is keep the rod from backing off the shaft. That pin has been there for 1700 hours and 21 years. The attached pictures is of both sides of the pin.
    I am happy it is working fine for you, but I get piece of mind knowing that I am grabbing the actual selector and turning it when my engine runs out of gas and tells me its time to switch to the left tank, happened at 300 feet agl today and 140mph as I was flying over a grass strip I use to keep my plane at, the strip is all torn up now, another one bites the dust.
    You have a good looking setup in your plane, you did not cut the original rod and weld an extension onto it so it could be installed farther from the fuel selector and angled downward at the selector thats attached to a thin piece of sheet metal like the other Clipper has.

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