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Thread: Door Frame Corrosion

  1. #21

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    I had bought a miller dynasty about 8 years ago and like it so far. The new welders sold at harbor freight (Vulcan) have
    gotten OK reviews on the welding forums---- not a nice as miller --- but maybe easier to get spare parts for than made in china everlast. The everlast apparently work fine-- but everyone is concerned that if a circuit board blows- the whole thing is disposable. The Vulcan is (I believe) made in America or designed in America--- to avoid the replacement parts avail. problem. You can read the thread on weldingweb about it.

    I was noticing that on the doors--- each different side of the door is a different size squ tube...…. Seems like a strange way to do things--- that they wouldn't standardize the tube size---- but I guess they didn't have to since they were making their own material----- but it makes it kind of a pain now-----

    I will see if I can do Steve's fix with the inner sleeve. (if I have scrap material for the outer section--)


    Tim

  2. #22
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    Piper bought the tubing. It is made like towel bars are made with a folded seam. The doors were all 1/16" tubing. Someone probably repaired your doors with something else. I did not do any inner sleeves, simply cut at an angle and butt welded together. It is not a structural part but a fairing.

  3. #23

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    Quote Originally Posted by violinmaker View Post
    I had bought a miller dynasty about 8 years ago and like it so far. The new welders sold at harbor freight (Vulcan) have
    gotten OK reviews on the welding forums---- not a nice as miller --- but maybe easier to get spare parts for than made in china everlast. The everlast apparently work fine-- but everyone is concerned that if a circuit board blows- the whole thing is disposable. The Vulcan is (I believe) made in America or designed in America--- to avoid the replacement parts avail. problem. You can read the thread on weldingweb about it.


    Tim
    I’ve got an Everlasting 210EXT, been using it for about 3 years now, so far so good!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #24

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    I have heard mostly good reports from everlast users-- they seem to weld great--- just some are worried about getting parts --- That's the single biggest reason I went with miller- even though it was 3x the price of Chinese.

    Steve--- wow that surprises that piper didn't mfg. that stuff.....
    I have 3 doors (pieces of doors--) and it looks like every tube is a different size even on one door---- that's a little confusing---

  5. #25

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    Steve:
    "I used a piece of 5/8" 4130 square tube as a liner to reinforce the splice. Since the original tube is a hemmed seam I had to cut a longitudinal groove in the sleeve tube so it would slide inside of the original hemmed 11/16" tubing that Piper built the door out of."

    This is what I was referring to when I said "inner sleeve" - did you take the 5/8 tube and cut one side off to clear the
    doubled side of the piper tune ?

  6. #26
    Administrator Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    Quote Originally Posted by violinmaker View Post
    Steve:
    "I used a piece of 5/8" 4130 square tube as a liner to reinforce the splice. Since the original tube is a hemmed seam I had to cut a longitudinal groove in the sleeve tube so it would slide inside of the original hemmed 11/16" tubing that Piper built the door out of."

    This is what I was referring to when I said "inner sleeve" - did you take the 5/8 tube and cut one side off to clear the
    doubled side of the piper tune ?
    I guess I did do a tube in a tube splice. Slept to many times and worked on to many airplanes since then I guess.

  7. #27

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    I bet every single person whose plane you repair is thankfull to have someone that knows how to do work thats to the bone solis and done to be proud of.
    I have seen some ( a few really) that just got my blood pressure up they were such jacklegs-- a couple were even IA's---- but many more were guys I loved to watch
    work--- likes to observe how they though about approaches to problem solving... and ways to fix problems so they stay fixed. I suspect many of us here are thankfull to have
    help when were on the learning curve.
    T

  8. #28
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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    Ok, so here I am spankin' this old thread, standing here with my rotted out lower door frame on my spare door that I'm turning into a patrol door with window in the lower, normally sheet metal area. I wasted a couple hours trying to oxy acet. (gas weld with really small tip), the rusted out part of the lower frame bottom. I learned this lesson about 30 years ago, so had to relearn it tonight. Dumb ass. Should have just cut it out and replaced...So, now having relearned the lesson I am going to section out about 10 to 12 inches of the lowermost part and replace it with something. Prolly some 5/8" 4130 chrom-molybd. Unless someone here knows better now. 11/16" with .020' wall available anywhere? Please advise as I'm going after this fast. Thanks.
    -Subsonic
    Last edited by Subsonic; 07-16-2020 at 10:34 PM.

  9. #29
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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    I have used 5/8" 4130 or sections of an old door to repair.

  10. #30

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    Default Re: Door Frame Corrosion

    I fixed mine with 5/8 square 4130 with the corner ground off to slide in the original roll formed tube.


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