Bungee Installation

Hi Glen,

I think that tool would work on our planes. That "cup" on the end would go over and hold on to the ear while the stretching cord would hold the tool against the hydrosorb as it's being wrenched/stretched up to the ear.
 
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I also replace mine on condition when the gear doors don’t snug up to the bumpers; Twice in 24 years. The first set lasted about 18 years. The still looked good when I cut them off.
 
Hi Glen,

I think that tool would work on our planes. That "cup" on the end would go over and hold on to the ear while the stretching cord would hold the tool against the hydrosorb as it's being wrenched/stretched up to the ear.

Jim,

I want to stand way back and watch you give it a try. It looks deadly to me. Long ago I made a similar tool to install bungees on my J3, it was exciting.
 
0128200853.jpgHi Stephen,

I've changed them a few times myself using home made flesh traps. If that tool was here I'd give it a try. I'm down for annual now and plan to change cords with an interesting homebuilt tool I borrowed from a crop duster friend. I'll post a picture a little later, it's a design that's, ....interesting, hopefully not lethal.
 
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Has anybody used or anyone know if you can use a bungee tool like this for installing bungees on a hydrasorb type shock for a PA-22? https://secure.steenaero.com/Store/site/product.cfm?id=6F19FF11-102E-BB20-19DF2A6172891E71
I have a tool similar to that and it works on the Clipper very well. It will work on a hydrosorb but it pulls the bungee from one end arond the hydrosorb 180 degrees. The Bungee Buddy pulls both ends towards the ears thus more evenly, less likely to tear the outside weeve and in my opinion much easier to use.

I have had bungees stored in my cabinet for years and not seen any issues. I think the UV would be the big issue.
 
I probably shouldn’t admit this but I am currently flying a set of bungees that have been installed at least 20 years. They still look good but I have been thinking about changing them on general principle anyway.

I think the Steen tool is for their aircraft but I don’t know what their bungee system looks like because I have never worked a Pitts or Skybolt.
 
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Hi All,
Here is a measured sketch and some photos, plus a work instruction and video, for the Bungee Boss.
This tool uses a telescoping car jack that can usually be found at your local auto wrecking yard.
Thanks to Forrest "Pacerfgoe" Miller and Lou "Lownslow" who originally produced this cool gadget.
Here's Forrest demonstrating the installation of fresh rings on his Pacer shocks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgL5JGSy748&t=6s

Cheers,
GG
 

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My Plane goes into annual at the end of the month. I found a Good I/A who is going to do an owner assisted for me. I have ordered new bungee's because mine are 11 years old and Im going to be landing off airport and figured It would be good to do them now. I have the Bungee Buddy coming from SWPC.org.
I have read the PDF , but wanted to ask about securing the tail wheel end of a PA22/20.
I plan to do one side at a time with an engine hoist but not sure how the tail wheel will react. Should I put it on a sawhorse ?
 
Hi,

If you're hoisting from one side of the engine mount at a time, you'll be good not doing anything with the tail wheel. The main gear you're not lifting will pretty much keep the plane planted.
 
So just finished helping with bungee change - whew!!! That is quite a job!
It is the 2nd time I have had an opportunity to help with it. This time we used a different tool that I was not familiar with.
The SWPC loaner tool was not available as they are all loaned out at present.
Is it true that wag aero [or is it univair] will put the bungees on your hydrosorbs if you purchase cords from them?
Do they charge for that service?
What do your mechanics charge you for bungee change?
I looked at the stance of my plane and decided they are just fine!
AL
 
Waiting for the Bungee tool from SWPC. I ordered one 1080HD and one 1280 HD for each side. I do plan on off airport operations but is the 1280HD too much? Should I go with two 1080 HD's per side ? This will be my first time doing this and Im a bit concerned about the bungees fitting over each other and the bolt going back in
 
I would go with the 1080s from my recent experience, if it starts to sag prematurely cut one off and install a 1280.
 
I run one 1080CW and one 128HDCW it is stiff at first however I am on 31" Bushwheels and operate at Gross Weight often. 1080s sag too quickly for my operations.
 
In the past year I've done 3 sets of short wing bungees, not as may as some I'm sure, but still a fair number. 2 were converted 22/20's the 3rd was an unconverted 22, all got the 1080HD/1280HD combo, and they seem to work well. Those are of course all wide gear, I would not use that combo on a narrow gear original 20, which if memory serves takes a single 1380 per Piper(though I could be mis-remembering) as the gear is much more straight up & down, so less leverage & more vertical shock


Waiting for the Bungee tool from SWPC. I ordered one 1080HD and one 1280 HD for each side. I do plan on off airport operations but is the 1280HD too much? Should I go with two 1080 HD's per side ? This will be my first time doing this and Im a bit concerned about the bungees fitting over each other and the bolt going back in
 
I have all bases covered. Im going with one 1080HD and one 1280HD. Plan to get this done this weekend, first time so wish me luck !
 
I don't recall which is preferred to install first, the 5/8" dia (1080) or the 3/4" dia (1280), does anyone recall which size goes on the hydrosorbs first?
When I had 1080/1280 combos on my PA22, it was challenging to get the upper shock bolt in as the bolt head scrubbed the bungee.
I recall getting a slightly improved situation with installing one size first vs the other, but can't recall.

The mixed sizes was too stiff for my particular style of landings.
I switched to (2) 1080HDs on each shock and that seems to be a bit nicer to taxi, and last about five years before becoming noticeably saggy.

Good luck,
GG
 
I don't recall which is preferred to install first, the 5/8" dia (1080) or the 3/4" dia (1280), does anyone recall which size goes on the hydrosorbs first?

I starting using the 1080HD 1280HD combo following the TW conversion (now 30 years ago) which puts more weight on mains. Yes a little stiff for the first few months but I got a lot longer life span between bungee changes with the combo.

I started out putting the larger 1280HD on first and the 1080HD on top and did that for probably 6 ore 8 times. My thinking was the 1280HD is stiffer so being on the bottom stretches it less.

In recent times, maybe the last 4 times, I've been putting the larger 1280HD on top of the 1080HD since the smaller 5/8th bungee fits down in the hydrasorb ears better and provides more room for the 3/4 inch to flatten out.

Either way the top bolt is an interference fit. I normally put a thin aluminum scrap metal strip between the bungee and the bolt which allows the bolt head to be tapped with a hammer past the bungee with no damage to the outer cloth.
 
There are some earlier posts in this thread on which to install first and why. I can't remember but I do know we were able to remove one because we did it the opposite and it was a scary process.
 
I have the Stewart Hanger 21 Bungee Tool from the Club here at the house now . The instructions say to install the 1080
first

” This will leave more seating area for the larger 1280 in the small end of the hydrosorb “

They also enclose two testimonials from members who used the come along method on the gear . I have the engine hoist and stap for my install but I can see where the other way may give you more control for bolt alignment where putting it all back together
 
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I've done them both ways, the 1080 then 1280 definitely works better for exactly the reason their instructions note. as to installing the hydrasorb/bungee combo in the aircraft, I've always found that that the engine hoist to lift worked best for me
I have the Stewart Hanger 21 Bungee Tool from the Club here at the house now . The instructions say to install the 1080
first

” This will leave more seating area for the larger 1280 in the small end of the hydrosorb “

They also enclose two testimonials from members who used the come along method on the gear . I have the engine hoist and stap for my install but I can see where the other way may give you more control for bolt alignment where putting it all back together
 
I've done them both ways, the 1080 then 1280 definitely works better for exactly the reason their instructions note. as to installing the hydrasorb/bungee combo in the aircraft, I've always found that that the engine hoist to lift worked best for me

I also believe I greatly extended the life of the bungees if I lift rock the wings after rolling back into the hanger, to allow the tires to slide inward and fully unload the bungees. You really don't have to lift the tires off the ground just get some weight off in a rocking motion by grasping the struts up at the wings and the bungees will fully collapse the hydrosorbs. I might add I don't fly that much in recent years. If flying often I would save my back and leave them stretched.
 
Well, taking them out was easy 1 hour 15 minutes start to finish on that part - solo No help
Bungees are about to be cut off but I think I have a problem
Over time someone has Grinded off some of the top tab on one side
Both shocks are that way
I think I may have to buy new top pieces

57D3623F-1203-4B4F-B525-F041A16239AF.jpeg


069732CA-45D9-4ABF-B12F-4937E00F0AD6.jpeg

I flipped one over both ears should look
like the one on the left as you guys know

WHY WOULD SOMEONE DO THAT ?

Now it’s gonna cost me 180 a side to buy new top pieces
 
I may have to bite the bullet and get new top pieces . These are Bent


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How do you remove them ? I see a small roll pin
 
I don't think the side of the ears will effect anything, not sure why someone did that though. It does look like the top has a bowed to it. I probably have some tops if needed.
 
Thanks Steve ! But once I saw had bad they were I started poking around the internet and found a whole set of top and bottoms , both sides for 110 bucks . Impatiently waiting for them to arrive .
These are both bowed . Hard to imagine . No cracks , just bent
 
I would go with the 1080s from my recent experience, if it starts to sag prematurely cut one off and install a 1280.
I'll be the double 1080HD guinea pig. Changing them next month during the Annual. Current ones (I'm not sure what sizes) are at least a decade old.

Jim
 
Okay folks, my IA hasn’t done much with hydrosorbs so I need a gouge. What do we need to check when I’m replacing the bungees? Looks like I need to clean them up and spray a little paint on them. Besides that, no leaks, deformities, etc. they take more effort to extend vs retract, is that correct? Also, when I install the new ones I’ll orient them like the old ones unless that is incorrect. I know the joint shouldn’t be on one of the “horns” and I’m guessing not having them next to each other is good too.

I’m lucky that I have a spare set on the airplane from Mark M years ago, but I will be buying some chain lengths as someone mentioned on here to use as a safety next time I’m changing bungees.
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Thanks!
 
Should be correct that it’s harder to extend them. They work opposite to shocks on a car. Extend to absorb the landing shock and retract quickly when you bounce back in the air (like my landings LOL).

Juergen
Pacer N3342Z
 
Anyone know the lifetime of the Clipper bungees? Mine have been on a while ... no sagging and no fraying. Should I change them?
 
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