Exhaust Cracked recommendations & interior cable reroute.

gdubya569

Glenn Whitcomb
Non-Member
Tri-Cities, WA
New owner to a very nice PA22 that had a cracked muffler. Options are dahleyaviation to repair which is really rebuild, take a part off my old one attach it and call it a repair. aircraftexhaust.com has it in stock for $525, univair $1700. Is there any other reasonable ways to approach this? This has a recurring AD so don't know if this will reset the clock if I replace with new but feel like it should. The repair will not.

Additionally the new cables someone put into the aircraft for throttle, mixture and carb heat are all wrong they didn't route over the top of the interior fuel line so they hit when you pull back the yoke. I'm guessing that's going to be a real pain to fix as they all have to get pulled back in and then dropped over the top. Any suggestions on best tactics? Thanks
 
New owner to a very nice PA22 that had a cracked muffler. Options are dahleyaviation to repair which is really rebuild, take a part off my old one attach it and call it a repair. aircraftexhaust.com has it in stock for $525, univair $1700. Is there any other reasonable ways to approach this? This has a recurring AD so don't know if this will reset the clock if I replace with new but feel like it should. The repair will not.

Additionally the new cables someone put into the aircraft for throttle, mixture and carb heat are all wrong they didn't route over the top of the interior fuel line so they hit when you pull back the yoke. I'm guessing that's going to be a real pain to fix as they all have to get pulled back in and then dropped over the top. Any suggestions on best tactics? Thanks

The only way to reset the clock is with a New muffler, not a repaired muffler. With new, the inspection is every 100 hours until that muffler has 900 hours as I recall, then drops to every 50 hours. Figure how long you will keep the airplane, and the cost of the inspections to see which option is best for you.


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On a quick side note, where do you all take your planes for this 50 hour inspection? Can I just take it to the repair shop at my home field, or do I need to find a local tri pacer familiar repair shop? How much do you all usually spend on this inspection?
 
I believe an A&P can do the check as them or an IA to do it. It's my understanding it's a pressure check for cracks and leaks. I pulled mine tonight and I'm pretty upset how bad it was CO2 could get you pretty quick. Look everything over have it checked.
 
I used Dawley Aviation. Yes, classed as a repair, but it was essentially a complete re-build. Very nice work, and it was around $350, IIRC. Since my A&P & I found hairline cracks in the ends and I assisted with the inspection... yeah, it's a PITA, but not that bad if you go carefully. I'll live with the AD (which I think is really a good idea anyway).

Also -- check the scat tube routing carefully; I found mine to be absolutely incorrect as far as the rear cabin heat & carb heat routings. (GRRRR!!!)

DSC07258.webpDSC07256.webp DSC07327.webp
 
Be sure to inspect your exhaust pipes when you do the muffler AD. There has been more than one fire caused by cracked exhaust pipes.


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I have always sent my old mufflers to Dawley and recieved a new unit in return with gussets and doublers in the places Piper should have put them including the bail to keep a broken flame tube from blocking the tail pipe which is what the AD was written for originally I believe. I would read the exhaust AD, there are some options on inspections and placarding.

I find misrouted engine push pull cables from time to time. They are a pain to remove and reroute but worth it in the long run.
 
Thanks, pga-- I think the downpipe (exhaust pipe) was the only thing that was in great shape, other than the header pipes.

On another note, my two-piece, gold-plated Univair official Piper-style elbow heat muff is now installed!

Shore is purty!

DSC08214.webp
 
Thanks, pga-- I think the downpipe (exhaust pipe) was the only thing that was in great shape, other than the header pipes.

On another note, my two-piece, gold-plated Univair official Piper-style elbow heat muff is now installed!

Shore is purty!

View attachment 16448
WOW...that really is purdy.

In another thread (door support rod) I saw a picture of Ms Pearl with that cuff painted as a real show piece. Seeing what mine looks like -pretty ugly- I thought who would do that. However, after seeing your brand new spiffy one, I could see how that came to be.
 
WOW...that really is purdy.

In another thread (door support rod) I saw a picture of Ms Pearl with that cuff painted as a real show piece. Seeing what mine looks like -pretty ugly- I thought who would do that. However, after seeing your brand new spiffy one, I could see how that came to be.

Nice looking shield. I like things to look clean for sure and wondered are the header pipes worth polishing? Would be a lot of work but sure look nice if they don't blue. I'm guessing probably not worth the effort but the thought crossed my mind.

Based on what Steve shared I think I'll just go dawley. I was trying to determine if the cost of two inspections for the "repaired" versus the additional $200 for new and only having to have it checked every 100 hours would pay off but if dawley is beefing it up then prefer that. What is entailed in doing the inspection other than capping and pressurizing? I would assume this is a fairly quick inspection correct? Appreciate all of the input.

Since the muffler is out we pulled the cables back and having a huge challenge trying to route them around the metal fuel line inside. Do any of you have decent pics how yours are done? I realize that each installation is different but would like to see if the STC for the fuel line fix was routed in the typical spot. IMG_4686.webp

Additionally what do you guys use for firewall paint? Mine is a metalic silver but the leak has flavored it not sure what would be best to touch it up. Thanks for all of the replies.
 

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Well, for five Franklins and change, that heat muff OTTA be nice looking. (Still bugs me how expensive it was, can you tell?)

Highly recommend Dawley; the quality of their work really does appear to be outstanding. I guess I hit them at a "good" time, as turn-around in my case was no more than 3 weeks -- I've heard since that they're running longer. May just be the time of year-- I sent mine in after the middle of March last year and got "it" back April 6th. (I'm told that might be a record...)

As far as inspections... talk to Steve.
 
The muffler does not need to be pressure checked each 50 or 100 hours. A visual inspection must be completed (through tailpipe and one end of muffler) each 50/100 hours (as required). If the mechanic feels that a more thorough inspection must be made, the muffler can be removed for pressure testing OR the engine can be ground run and the cabin heat checked by a carbon monoxide detector.
On my personal airplanes, when the muffler reaches 1000hrs time in service since new or last rebuild, I send them to Dawley for rebuild/repair. At 1000hrs they are getting weak.
 
They told me yesterday about a week out. Not too bad gives me time to clean and address other things I need to fix.
 
AD 68-05-01

(a) For all airplanes except Models J3, J4, J5, PA-11 and those referenced
in paragraphs (i) and (j), which have exhaust mufflers with 950 or
more hours time in service on the effective date of this AD, comply
with paragraph (e) within the next 50 hours time in service and
thereafter at intervals not to exceed 50 hours time in service from
the last inspection.


(b) For all airplanes except Models J3, J4, J5, PA-11 and those referenced
in paragraphs (i) and (j), which have exhaust mufflers with less than
950 hours time in service on the effective date of this AD, comply
with paragraph (e) within the next 50 hours time in service, and
thereafter at intervals not to exceed 100 hours time in service from
the last inspection. After the exhaust muffler has accumulated 950
hours time in service, comply with the inspection requirements of
paragraph (a).
(e) Inspect in accordance with paragraph (f), and paragraph (g) if applic-
able, the engine exhaust muffler and shroud assembly (including the
internal baffle tube and tail pipe), carburetor heat shroud and air
duct, support braces, clamps and brackets, exhaust stacks and
manifolds. Do not alter those mufflers incorporating an internal
baffle tube to remove the tube without prior FAA approval.
(Piper Service Letter No. 324B describes the critical areas.)


(f) Remove muffler assembly, disconnect air ducts, stacks, and shrouds as
necessary, and visually inspect exterior and interior surfaces with a
probe light and mirror for signs of cracks, corrosion, burn-throughs,
heat damage, collapsed stack, or weld separations. For carburetor type
engines, special attention should be given to the exhaust stack under
the carburetor heat shroud. Except during the initial inspection, the
muffler need not be removed from the airplane, provided visual
inspection with probe light and mirror is made through the muffler
tail pipe outlet and one end of the muffler at the stack connection.


(g) If the inspection specified in paragraph (f) shows that the exhaust
stacks and internal baffle tube are in good condition, but there are
areas inside the muffler which cannot be adequately inspected with a
probe light and mirror, accomplish one of the following:


(1) Accomplish a submerged pressure check of the muffler and exhaust stack
at 10 psi air pressure.


(2) Conduct a ground test using a carbon monoxide indicator by heading the
airplane into the wind, warming the engine on the ground, advancing
the throttle to full static r.p.m. with cabin heat valves open, and
taking readings of the heated airstream inside the cabin at each
outlet (including rear seat heat outlet, if installed). Appropriate
sampling procedures applicable to the particular indicator must be
followed. If carbon monoxide concentration exceeds .005 percent or if
a dangerous reading is obtained on an indicator not calibrated in
percentages, inspect in accordance with (f), and perform a submerged
pressure check of the muffler and exhaust stack at 10 psi air pressure
before further flight.


(3) Close and secure cabin heat valves at the firewall until a complete
muffler inspection in accordance with paragraph (f) is accomplished.
 
AD 68-05-01

(a) For all airplanes except Models J3, J4, J5, PA-11 and those referenced
in paragraphs (i) and (j), which have exhaust mufflers with 950 or
more hours time in service on the effective date of this AD, comply
with paragraph (e) within the next 50 hours time in service and
thereafter at intervals not to exceed 50 hours time in service from
the last inspection.


(b) For all airplanes except Models J3, J4, J5, PA-11 and those referenced
in paragraphs (i) and (j), which have exhaust mufflers with less than
950 hours time in service on the effective date of this AD, comply
with paragraph (e) within the next 50 hours time in service, and
thereafter at intervals not to exceed 100 hours time in service from
the last inspection. After the exhaust muffler has accumulated 950
hours time in service, comply with the inspection requirements of
paragraph (a).
(e) Inspect in accordance with paragraph (f), and paragraph (g) if applic-
able, the engine exhaust muffler and shroud assembly (including the
internal baffle tube and tail pipe), carburetor heat shroud and air
duct, support braces, clamps and brackets, exhaust stacks and
manifolds. Do not alter those mufflers incorporating an internal
baffle tube to remove the tube without prior FAA approval.
(Piper Service Letter No. 324B describes the critical areas.)


(f) Remove muffler assembly, disconnect air ducts, stacks, and shrouds as
necessary, and visually inspect exterior and interior surfaces with a
probe light and mirror for signs of cracks, corrosion, burn-throughs,
heat damage, collapsed stack, or weld separations. For carburetor type
engines, special attention should be given to the exhaust stack under
the carburetor heat shroud. Except during the initial inspection, the
muffler need not be removed from the airplane, provided visual
inspection with probe light and mirror is made through the muffler
tail pipe outlet and one end of the muffler at the stack connection.


(g) If the inspection specified in paragraph (f) shows that the exhaust
stacks and internal baffle tube are in good condition, but there are
areas inside the muffler which cannot be adequately inspected with a
probe light and mirror, accomplish one of the following:


(1) Accomplish a submerged pressure check of the muffler and exhaust stack
at 10 psi air pressure.


(2) Conduct a ground test using a carbon monoxide indicator by heading the
airplane into the wind, warming the engine on the ground, advancing
the throttle to full static r.p.m. with cabin heat valves open, and
taking readings of the heated airstream inside the cabin at each
outlet (including rear seat heat outlet, if installed). Appropriate
sampling procedures applicable to the particular indicator must be
followed. If carbon monoxide concentration exceeds .005 percent or if
a dangerous reading is obtained on an indicator not calibrated in
percentages, inspect in accordance with (f), and perform a submerged
pressure check of the muffler and exhaust stack at 10 psi air pressure
before further flight.


(3) Close and secure cabin heat valves at the firewall until a complete
muffler inspection in accordance with paragraph (f) is accomplished.


Anybody have a copy of Piper Service Letter No. 324B?
 
Another vote for Dawley from me. Our old muffler appeared to be good externally but the insides were rotted out. Didn't really matter since what we got back appears to be 100% new. I'm sure something was retained from the old just so it could be called 'repaired' but hard to tell from my end. Additional reinforcements and a bail inside to make sure that no blockage can happen in the future. Quick turnaround.

Sent from my SM-T350 using ShortWingPipers.Org mobile app
 
Another vote for Dawley from me. Our old muffler appeared to be good externally but the insides were rotted out. Didn't really matter since what we got back appears to be 100% new. I'm sure something was retained from the old just so it could be called 'repaired' but hard to tell from my end. Additional reinforcements and a bail inside to make sure that no blockage can happen in the future. Quick turnaround.

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"Let's see, we can repair it if we replace everything except that tab. Ok, sign off the repair. Well, that tab doesn't look good, let's repair it again. New sign-off. Done."
Just a theory. I don't really care, they do a great job.
 
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My A&P was also not very impressed with my original muffler, made by Aero Fabricators, apparently (?) AKA Wag-Aero....

DSC07259.webp
 
Re: Exhaust Cracked recommendations & interior cable reroute.

If you ask them to build you a muffler with said reinforcements it is then an owner produced part and can be brand new zero time.
I had them build my entire system for the O-360 install that way. By having slight changes it wasn't something that could be purchased through a vendor selling PMA'd parts.
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Quick clarification needed... if it is sent out and repaired, does that reset the 1000 hour AD, or does it have to be new? I’m sure this is clarified somewhere, but I must have missed it.
 
I had a Wag Aero muffler crack on the end in about 150 hours. I bought a new muffler from Chief aircraft and it is made completely different and for the last 350 hours no issues.
 
I have sent mine to dawley looking forward to getting this fixed as there was significant signs of rubbing. That brings me to the next question. The shield has been rubbed through Univair wants $616.00 for that cover any other place to acquire one a little less expensive? Have any of you detailed the header pipes by polishing them? I'm a nut for cleanliness and thought something I could do while I'm waiting for parts to get back to my guy. Thanks
 
Taking a page from the automotive world, ceramic coatings on exhaust pieces are just about the most robust treatment you can do, AFAIK... There are outfits that specialize in that, and I see where Aircraft Spruce even sells a hi-temp aluminum spray coating for exhaust systems.

If you really want to "purty it up," I should think that would be the way to go. Google "ceramic coatings for exhaust" and see what you come up with. If you already have your header pipes out....hmmmm....(Not a bad idea; post pics!)

EDIT (15 min. later) Just watched a couple you-tube videos... wow, wish I had thought of that when I had my pipes out! As near as I can tell, there are two ways to go about it: either give to a professional coating company, or the DIY route using a spray can of material and an old oven for baking & curing. Coating the pipes just went on my "someday list"! ...Or.. does anyone know why that wouldn't be a reasonable idea on an aircraft?
 
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Have seen the exhaust pipes and header pipes polished on a C-140 and a J-3.
Once they are flown a little while the heat creates a blue stain and the shine
is not so dramatic. Great treatment for a plane on display and not flown.
 
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