PA-22-150 Tail Surfaces

[RaggedyAnn]

B.L.U.F. (bottom line up front) I'm looking for some very general advice regarding Pa-22 tail surfaces, and open to many different suggestions.
Details: I've been spending some time with the sandblaster on my tail surfaces lately, and noticing the unfortunate reality that my airplane is a scooch over 60 years old. (Sherlock I know...) I'm not to concerned with replacing corroded tube sections where they are beyond limits, nor concerned about replacing parts. What does concern me is that it appears that I could easily have a rediculous amount of time in just getting these things airworthy again, if I have to start bending parts like say a rudder rib from scratch. Does anyone know if individual parts like this are available from any supplier? I know that if my wallet was motivated enough, Univair would ship me ready to cover tail surfaces in a couple weeks, but I'm kinda hoping to not have $3.5k in just an airworthy tail section. I also know that I could search flymarts and Barnstormers for other slightly more rebuildable tail surfaces, but run the risk that the sandblaster reveals more work than I have now. How do most of you handle this situation? I've looked at some of Brian's rebuild posts on his Andya resto thread, and he made some pretty straightforward 43.13 repairs to the tubes, but not really much more than that. What's the proven, yet affordable path to not stalling out my project on the details here?

 

[MrBill]

I've bent tube steel many times and think it would not be difficult to make a perfect copy of the original, be fun too. Just leave a little extra on each end to wack off later. I would like to find me a place local that sells all the tube steel. Its pricey to ship.
I have seen em on ebay quite a bit, just ask em to take more close up pictures.

 

[Steve Pierce]

Univair sells individual ribs. Look at the drawing and get the part numbers. https://www.shortwingpipers.org/forum/showthread.php?13741-mystery-part-for-rudder-rib

 

[Stephen]

You might use someone less aggressive than sand when cleaning old parts.

 

[RaggedyAnn]

Steve, thanks for the tip, that's exactly the type of response I was looking for, and I didn't even know that I was going to have problems finding that part number yet. Greatly appreciated. Regarding the rudder upper rib, seems like it would have been better preserved had the rotating beacon mount post been welded 100% instead of leaving a rain scoop pointed straight at the sky with weld gaps to let water in? Is there any good reason not to address this with a full weld bead upon replacement of the other discrepant parts?

 

[Steve Pierce]

Steve, thanks for the tip, that's exactly the type of response I was looking for, and I didn't even know that I was going to have problems finding that part number yet. Greatly appreciated. Regarding the rudder upper rib, seems like it would have been better preserved had the rotating beacon mount post been welded 100% instead of leaving a rain scoop pointed straight at the sky with weld gaps to let water in? Is there any good reason not to address this with a full weld bead upon replacement of the other discrepant parts?

Can you post a picture? Not familiar I guess.

 

[RaggedyAnn]

Here you are Steve, 3012Z does not have a rudder mounted anit-collision light, but it did have the post for it? I parked it outside for about 2.5 years before starting the restoration, and realized as soon as I cut the fabric off the rudder that I could have at least capped the tube If I knew it had those gaps. hindsight... Since the forward facing rib is basically a catch pan with the free flanges of the channel pointed up, it made pretty quick work of the steel. Check out the rust hole about .5 from the torque tube and the pits on the face of the tube right up to the level of the free flanges. Nice that the hole was at least in the middle third of the channel... material around the hole isn't very far behind though.
View attachment 18296
View attachment 18297

 

[RaggedyAnn]

Not exactly sure what happened the first time around, but here's the two that aren't showing correctly.

 

[JPerkins]

I've cut the beacon mount off the tops of rudders in the past if they're unused. The ribs can be patched. An old tail surface you can scavenge pieces off helps, that is, if it's not rotted out in the same place.


Sent from my SM-G930V using ShortWingPipers.Org mobile app

 

[Steve Pierce]

I see now. A pictures worth a thousand words.