Pacer bush plane underway!

i needed something to do while I was working a 24 hour shift this week so I took the tanks with me to work to start cleaning. They had gooped sealant all over these things and I understood why as I took them apart. There was not one seal used and the senders had basic screws holding them in place. I cleaned everything up and ordered all the correct screws and seals. I need to multi netter the senders and make sure they are fu slctuoning now that I am back home.

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It was a good 10 plus hour day on the build. Got the brakes all mounted down to where they will connect at the gear. I also got the entire fuel system from the tanks down to the sumps, through the fuel valve and out to the gasolator done. I used an Allen fuel valve that we machined to allow for left, right, both and off. Tomorrow i need to fly over the Greenville PA to pick up another set of PA-18 gear I bought but may stay home and concentrate on getting the last few things ready for paint midweek. The overall goal is to have the plane on its gear by this weekend.
 
Today was spent refurbing a new, old stock set of Cleveland wheels and brakes. These things have been sitting in a hanger for about 25 years. They will see some good use here very soon! Also took a break and laid the first coat of white tire paint on my GoodYear logos.

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Ah, I wondered and thought maybe you had some method. makes sense, the other part does get rusty.
 
Here is a close se up and a pic of the ones I just did for my 172... although that paint might have given a little extra grip for stopping power!

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Big day today. All the paint is now finished for the gear to be assembled. I wanted to switch out the bungees on the hydrosorbs before assembling everything tomorrow so I hope to fly over to Greenville, PA to use Elbow Street Aviation's bungee tool. If I cant get over there tomorrow I will do the final mounting of the gear legs, Cabene Vee and lower struts in preparation. Having it up on gear officially will be a big deal for me. I will post some pics as I move along over the next few days.
 
Thanks!!! The accent graphics will be black, silver and white. I am pumped after today. Saturday I hope to finish the fuel line from the valve to the gascolator then it’s probably the final brake line connections. Panel is about ready to go in and all the wiring is ran and in place. It actually feels like it is coming together!
 
Mounted the gascolator mount and gascolator today. Ordered all the parts to make stainless braided brake lines from the master cylinders down to the calipers. Started to put the panel together today. I will put it together basic for now and later this winter we will water just put a more advanced panel. Also started to get everything in order to start mounting the motor. I will be presenting the Vans RV6 baffle kit soon.
 
It’s funny how you can put 8-10 hour days in the shop on a build yet when you go to write a post about up it seems that you have not gotten much done! This past week saw the completion of the fuel system from the birdcage all the way to the gascolator as well as completion of the brake system. I went with the Aeroquip stainless steel braided lines. I left some extra under the floor board in case I had any issues with the routing I chose. While working on the brakes I decided to take care of a weak tab that held down the left side of the peddle assembly. I decided the best was to do it correctly was to remove the left side boot cowl so I could get in with the Tig torch. After the fix I repainted that section and buttoned it back up. I mocked the panel up with all the instruments and started to figure out the routing for the wires and pitot static tubing. Today I have a sick 8 year old hanging out with me so she is watching TV as I piddle around with the panel. I was hoping to get the panel in this week but still need to get my matching Becker transponder here and wired up.
 

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If you stick a 45 degree fitting into the top of the brake caliper and adjust the brake line (might need to shorten it a bit) you will get rid of that arch in the line begging for a air bubble to hold. Not a huge deal just something to consider.
DENNY
 
Thank Denny! I will do that. That’s exactly why I left some extra line so I could change things up if needed. I have plenty of space to tuck a few actors inches under the floor till I get it all dialed in then cut it perfect. I thought about going to the bottom of the caliper but was worried about the higher potential of the lone snagging something.
 
I redid my panel a couple of years ago and opted for a lower profile PA 16 panelnor I should say it alis actually a PA 22 with minor modification. Anyway, I had several mock ups, wittled it down to one. Layed it out, cut the holes, then threw it away and started again.

I like it so far.
 
I would not go to the bottom of the caliper for a few reasons. ( skis, snagging, and air issues) Keep it just like you have it just try to get the loop out. Sometimes sounds simple but issues arise. Do you have welded tabs on the leg that hold the cable low?
DENNY
 
I had the same issue on my Vagabond. Two rudder pedal tabs (port and middle) had cracked welds.
My welder added weld "stitches" under the tab to improve strength og teh welded joint.
TonyN
 
I finally got the 45 degree brake fittings installed and they worked way better. My motor mount bushings were back ordered until Dec 4th so that slowed me up mounting the motor. Spent a lot of time cleaning my hangar up for the local aviation club’s Christmas dinner this Friday evening. Ordering the Vans baffle kit with rear oil cooler mount tomorrow. Last thing to do for the panel is to order and install the circuit breakers and switches. I am hoping to pick up a Becker transponder this week to match my radio that I bought. Getting closer each day. Still have to hit the paint booth to finish up some small parts.... Atlee Dodge long steps, and touch up on the cowling where we got the paint a little lite.

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I finally got the 45 degree brake fittings installed and they worked way better. My motor mount bushings were back ordered until Dec 4th so that slowed me up mounting the motor. Spent a lot of time cleaning my hangar up for the local aviation club’s Christmas dinner this Friday evening. Ordering the Vans baffle kit with rear oil cooler mount tomorrow. Last thing to do for the panel is to order and install the circuit breakers and switches. I am hoping to pick up a Becker transponder this week to match my radio that I bought. Getting closer each day. Still have to hit the paint booth to finish up some small parts.... Atlee Dodge long steps, and touch up on the cowling where we got the paint a little lite.

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I am installing the Vans engine baffle kit currently on my 0320. I also put my oil cooler on the left rear . I made my own support brackets. The project is a puzzle, I am not impressed with the instructions but, I like puzzles. It is an improvement over my original engine baffles.
 
Probably more appropriate for a new thread, but Stephen you should show me some pics of how your oil cooler mounts on the rear baffles in relation to its cylinder neighbor. I have a pretty strong theory for why my oil cooling is less than ideal.
 
Probably more appropriate for a new thread, but Stephen you should show me some pics of how your oil cooler mounts on the rear baffles in relation to its cylinder neighbor. I have a pretty strong theory for why my oil cooling is less than ideal.

Since my plane is a Bushmaster, I feel OK to post on this thread. I'll try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow. I have had my oil cooler up against the rear cylinder for a few years and have not had oil cooling issues. The new Van's baffle is lower in the rear so the cooler will set a bit lower. I wonder if that will effect the cooling.
 
Since my plane is a Bushmaster, I feel OK to post on this thread. I'll try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow. I have had my oil cooler up against the rear cylinder for a few years and have not had oil cooling issues. The new Van's baffle is lower in the rear so the cooler will set a bit lower. I wonder if that will effect the cooling.

That’s basically what my theory is. The lower the cooler is mounted in relation to the cylinder, the less air I believe will pass through the cooler vice the cylinder fins. I saw your pics in the other thread, nice craftsmanship!
 
While I am waiting on some back ordered engine mount bushings I decided to clean up and paint my engine. It is a very low time engine, less then 50 hours, that has been in storage. It has been inspected and is ready to go but just did not look as good as the rest of my new plane. Today I scrubbed the engine down and then taped everything off. I sprayed it with Lycoming gray and did all the small parts in a satin black. I am trying to decide between red or black for the valve covers. It took a long 10 hour day from start to finish but I am glad that I did it.

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Had a good weekend. Got all the engine paint finished up and actually got to mate the engine up to the airframe. I am hoping to have everything bolted together tomorrow and want to start mounting the Vans baffles by the end of the week. If al goes well today I will be picking up efrench’s Sutton exhaust. Getting closer!

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