Sullivan Wingtip Extensions

N

nogoodusernames

Non-Member
https://www.shortwingpipers.org/for...g-Extension&highlight=sullivan+wing+extension

There's this really great thread, but it's been inactive for a plurality of years, so I thought making a new one would be more better.

I've purchased this STC and gotten my fiberglass wingtips (just the tips, he's not selling a kit anymore) and am now getting ready for the install on my 22/20. I have questions, and think that perhaps having these all together in one place would be beneficial not just for me, but primarily for me, for sure! If nobody has advice/tips/pictures/etc. I intend to call Mr. Sullivan and put the answers here. However, time zone differences and busyness of life make incessant phone conversations vexing. Plus, I'll have everything recorded here.

Question #1
Nose ribs: does anyone know if they are meant to be included between the replaced full-size ribs? Does anyone include them anyway?

Question #2
Aluminum leading edge skin: is there a necessary thickness? I have a "parts plane" ('61 Colt) that I can cannibalize the skins from. I'm assuming the skin at the outboard side is wide enough. Should I avoid re-using this or any other part? I've got various cannibalized ribs as well (more on that later).

Question #3
Spar: What are the dimensions of the spar extension? .090 thick? What type of aluminum? Does it matter if it's 6061 or something else?

Question #4
Spar: What are the hole dimension, hole spacing, and number of bolts through the spar and spar extension?

Question #5
Aluminum (I assume) angle: The piece of angle that attaches the tip-rib to the spar, what size is that? If it's not actually aluminum, I'd be surprised, but please tell me!

Question #6
Back-up channels (front and rear): Can someone show me what these are supposed to be?

Question #7
Rib: What rib do I use to screw to the tip? Does anyone have the part number on that?

These are my questions at this time! If you can help, I'd appreciate it! Thanks for your help, experience, pictures, and tips or tricks!
 
Why not add this to the other thread so all the information is together?

Did Ron not send the instructions and drawings?
 
While I've never installed those tips, all the instructions should be included along with drawings. If they weren't, go back to Ron and ask for them.
 
I found my copy of the instructions with notes on the angles and spar plates. I am sure the skins are .020" like everything else Piper built.
 
I have Sullivan tips on my wing. Like Brian, I use a putter stamped rib. Although, I used U shaped Tinmerman nut and B type screws to attach the tips. Unfortunately, the Sullivan tips require some work to finish the aft end.
 
Not sure why a new thread was created- you could have continued your post on the old thread and maintained the subject matter in one . Do you have Piper drawings? Very useful when rebuilding or modifying Mr Piper’s plane as you don’t have to guess what worked in the past and you have a justifiable basis for decisions you make going forward.
Are you a “full member” here? I am amazed at the number of non contributing “lurkers” on the site whenever I visit. A little “skin in the game” improves the site for all.

Everyone seems to love their Sullivan tips. Sorry to hear you haven’t gotten details on installation. Makes me sad when STCs go away. Send pics as you make the journey!
 
Thanks for the pics, that's very helpful. Mr. Sullivan sent some drawings, but not everything was as detailed as I would have liked. I've sent him an email and called him, but making time zones match up is not the easiest thing in the world for someone just about as far east as you can get in the US and someone just about as far west as you can get in the US. I'm not perturbed at Mr. Sullivan, I was just looking to get any insights people who have used the product in the past.

I put this in its own thread because I thought it would be better to have it specifically NOT together. I've used various online information forums, and I'd say most of them prefer to have separate threads for separate topics/projects. If that's not the case here, please feel free to combine the threads, that's totally fine with me. I just thought it would be more helpful, that's all. If I'm wrong, that's fine. Maybe one of the mods can move it?

Stephen, what kind of rib did you use? I think auto-correct smacked you.

Thanks for the help so far! I intend to post what Mr. Sullivan tells me if it hasn't come up already.
 
I have a set of wings that I am restoring, fitted with the Sullivan tips.

When I pulled the tips off, I was surprised to find 2 x 1/4 inch solid plywood end ribs which the fibreglass tips screw to. (This mod was installed in 1987 when the aeroplane was converted to a tailwheel 22/20. Originally it's home was Cashmere, Washington but it came to Australia via the UK) I weighed them (almost 6 pounds each.) and immediately decided to use Univair butt ribs as replacements.

I have the original drawings and installation notes in my files and would be happy to scan them and email them to you. All I need is an email address.
 
Curly said:
I have a set of wings that I am restoring, fitted with the Sullivan tips.

When I pulled the tips off, I was surprised to find 2 x 1/4 inch solid plywood end ribs which the fibreglass tips screw to. (This mod was installed in 1987 when the aeroplane was converted to a tailwheel 22/20. Originally it's home was Cashmere, Washington but it came to Australia via the UK) I weighed them (almost 6 pounds each.) and immediately decided to use Univair butt ribs as replacements.

I have the original drawings and installation notes in my files and would be happy to scan them and email them to you. All I need is an email address.
Click to expand...

The plywood is original to the STC. The STC has you screw on the tips and glue 3 inch fabric tape over the "seam" making them hard to remove if needed. That is the main reason I like using the aluminum rib with nut plates so its easy to maintain.

--Brian
 
I got ahold of Mr. Sullivan! A little while ago, but I've been busy getting my airplane disassembled.

Answer #1: No nose ribs are necessary or included in the STC data or drawings.

Answer #2: I'm just re-using what was on the Colt. It's .020 inch (all dimensions in inches hereafter).

Answer #3: The spar web extension is .090 minimum, he said I could go bigger if I wanted to. They are 16" long, and 5 3/8 and 3 13/16 (if my notebook is accurately interpreted) for front and rear respectively. He told me I could make them a few thousandths bigger and therefore less sloppy if I wanted to (so I did). I should have just cut them to his dimension. It would have saved me time on the belt sander. He said not to use anything super soft, but otherwise, the aluminum grade didn't matter much. I got some 6061 T6. I figured that wouldn't give me any trouble.

Answer #4:Hole size is #10 drill. There are four bolts through each extension. Two through the original web, and two at the tips through the holes that attached the brackets that held the wood bow.

Answer #5: Apparently just about any old aluminum extrusion will do, as long as it's not too small or thin. I got 3/4 x 3/4 angle, with 1/8 wall thickness. It seems to be fine.

Answer #6 (and #7): This is now obsolete, but formerly he just made some aluminum channel with .032 aluminum to back up the connection between the angle and the rib. Now, the rib is different. He made his own stamped ribs formerly, but now he tells people to use the Univair stamped ribs. This requires something to fill up the space that would normally be filled with the spar. I used some of the .090 plate I used for the spar extensions. Riveted to the Univair ribs, it took care of that.
 
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