Finally got the fuselage back into the shop. The first thing I did is fix a few mistakes. The U channel above the D window was attached to close toward the inside of fuselage. So I ground down the welds and moved it outward on both sides and welded it again. The issue was when I would put the D window and trim on I think it would have been interfering with the wing root fairings. The other thing was the U channel at the elevator attach was to close together at the tail post and was just touching the elevator tab at the top that connects to the spring on the cable. I ground out the welds and moved both of them outward about a 1/4 inch each and welded them again. Everything got epoxy primer after. I installed the last of the rivnuts on the U channel for the wing root fairings and attached all the tinnermans to the tabs for the interior panels.
Wagabond build
- Thread starter todd2391
- Start date
I riveted brake pads on the brake plates and new O-rings on the pistons. I drilled and mounted the brake backing plates to the gear legs on both sides, then made up the brake lines that sit inside the gear legs. Next I removed the gear and attached the fuselage to the rotisserie. I am starting to cover the gear legs, getting the back side fabric glued down and smoothed out. I am waiting on the fuselage fabric as the wrong fabric was shipped to me (light) instead of medium, should be here this coming week.
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They are pre made. The ones from the brake masters to the gear hard line are 18" with 90 degree ends and the ones from the gear hard line to the brake caliper are 6" ones. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/speedway-motors-brake-lines~8207-10191-4295-3-476-30464 I got them here
I got the fabric I needed delivered earlier than expected. I glued the fabric to the outside of both gear legs and smoothed and cleaned up the glue seams, heat shrunk them both down to 350 degrees and brushed the first coat of poly brush down. On the fuselage I cut out fabric for the left and right sides, ironed the fold on the edge, pinned the left and right sides together and then sewed the center seam from the rear of the skylight to the top of the vertical fin. I glued the bottom fabric to the fuselage longerons, cleaned and smoothed out the glue seams. I put a small amount of glue on the top center stringer and clamped the sewn seam over it to keep it centered as I glued the left and right sides to the bottom longeron.
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I finished glueing the left and right side fabric to the lower longerons, cleaned up the glued areas and heat smoothed all the seams. On the gear I drew out the areas for the finishing tapes and applied poly brush, let it dry, and then applied the finishing tapes to both left and right gear legs. On the fuselage I glued the rest of the fabric around the doors, D windows, and the front areas by the boot cowl. I cleaned up these glued areas and then shrunk the fuselage fabric to 250, alternating from front to back, side to side, and bottom. Then I shrunk it down the same way to 350, cleaned all the fabric with MEK and then brushed on one coat of poly brush. Next I drew out all the finishing taped areas, inspection rings, and panels. I got the top of the vertical stab rib stitched and next I brushed a coat of poly brush on these areas and then started laying finishing tapes starting at the front bottom and working my way back. I made aluminum reinforcements to glue down for the inspection panels and also glued down the inspection rings on the bottom side before taping them over. Also its not very fun working with a hot iron in 90 degree temps.
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Thanks for the compliments. Yes you have to go under the bottom u-channel and over the top of the top u-channel to allow for screwing in of the wing root fairings. I did it by cutting the fabric on the side of the top u-channel and then going under the bottom u-channel. There is very little room for error here and you will have a decent size wrinkle at the very trailing edge. Then I glued the fabric under the bottom u-channel to the top longeron. That wrinkle will go away once you start gluing to the bottom longeron and pulling the fabric a little tighter in this area. I also seen people use 3 pieces of fabric here. Sides and top glues over the top longerons
I finished laying down the rest of the tapes and inspection panel reinforcements on the fuselage. I got the bigger wrinkles out of all the taped areas with the iron. Next I brushed on a coat of poly brush over all the taped areas on the fuselage and gear legs. Also I had a question, I am looking for a exhaust system for the build, O-235, anyone have leads on where to get exhaust and which type would be better the muffler in rear like colt 108, or under the front like cessna 152 with O-235, or location to buy a used exhaust. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks, I did the sewn top instead of the 3 pieces method (2 sewn seems) because it was easier to sew one seam instead of two. I also did this with my other build, glue bottom on and then the two side pieces sewn together at top center and it worked out nice. Now I have to heat smooth all the tapes and then start spraying.
Graham, Texas, United States
I prefer the Sutton (Grumman style) exhaust. Less heat on the firewall and easier to work on the back of the engine.
We use the sewn center seam down the center stringer after covering the belly separate as well.
We use the sewn center seam down the center stringer after covering the belly separate as well.
Thanks for the info, the day I posted about the exhaust I actually came across a set of new straight pipes and got them at a decent price. I heat smoothed all the tapes and inspection panel gussets down, cleaned everything up and sprayed 2 coats of poly brush on the fuselage and gear legs. After letting this dry for a few days I sprayed one cross coat of poly spray silver on the fuselage and gear legs today.
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Got the 2nd cross coat of poly spray silver on the fuselage and gear legs. I let this dry for a few days and then wet sanded the fuselage and gear legs. I burned drain holes and holes for all the screws for inspection panels with a soldering iron and sprayed the final cross coat of poly spray silver. I let this sit for a couple of days and then sprayed 3 coats of poly tone Daytona white on the fuselage and gear legs. First was mist coat, 2nd was medium coat, and the final coat was a wet coat. All in all it looks pretty good. Stripe is next.
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Taped off the fuselage and sprayed 3 coats of poly tone true blue for the strip. After the tapes were pulled off the fuselage I cut the openings for the inspection panels. I took the shock struts apart and cleaned all the gear parts and painted them enamel Daytona white.
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Thank you I appreciate that. I started putting the interior panels in the fuselage. I assembled the storage bins and installed the panels on the lower baggage area. I also installed the center covers between the seats with the inspection panel covers. Then I kept moving along the inside side installing the panel and inspection covers. Then I moved onto the gear. I assembled the shock struts together and installed the cabane vee and both gear legs. I bolted these all together and removed the fuselage stands from the motor mount and rear of the fuselage.
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Graham, Texas, United States
That has good to feel good, major progress.
Getting all my ducks in a row to get most of the fuselage covered this weekend. A few questions for you experts:
Is it normal to not carry the fabric all the way forward at the wing root area on the fuselage? I see you ended yours at the rear door post.
I am having a tough time wrapping my head around how you did the rear of the wing root area like that? I think you said in a post it goes under the bottom U channel and over the top of the upper U channel, but in the photos it doesn't appear to do that? How do get the fabric around that area with out needing to make large cuts to pass where the wing root U channel formers are welded to the upper Longeron?
Fabric is not cheap, really don't want to screw this up.
Is it normal to not carry the fabric all the way forward at the wing root area on the fuselage? I see you ended yours at the rear door post.
I am having a tough time wrapping my head around how you did the rear of the wing root area like that? I think you said in a post it goes under the bottom U channel and over the top of the upper U channel, but in the photos it doesn't appear to do that? How do get the fabric around that area with out needing to make large cuts to pass where the wing root U channel formers are welded to the upper Longeron?
Fabric is not cheap, really don't want to screw this up.
Yes the progress is good, its always nice to see major parts going in. I made the gear legs from scratch and the plans I got off another builders page and copied his. Of course I can't remember which page it was now. I do know I have a description in this thread on the gear legs and will attach some pics again. I am using a lycoming O-235C1B. I just sent the cylinders out for overhaul last week. For the fabric I did end it at the door post as the wing root fairings will attach to the upper door frame and to the wing on the bottom side and on the top side the wing root fairing will go from the skylight to the wing rib. So for the fabric at the rear: glue the top fabric on the U channel on the top and glue around to the side, cut it all the way to the point at the rear where the u channel started. Then pull the fabric under up to the top longeron and glue it on there. Cut notches at the vertical U channel to get the fabric around the top longeron. You will have a good size wrinkle at the rear where the wing root u channel starts, don't worry it will work out most of it when you start pulling the fabric tight to glue at the bottom longeron. and if the fabric is to short to reach the top longeron you can sew a small piece on as you will never see this seam. I know its hard to explain this by typing, take an old sheet and clamp it down using what I described and cutting it to see how it fits and how big the wrinkle will be before using your good fabric. Glad you liked my panel ideas, it took a few poster board patterns to figure out, but was worth the time.
So as far as progress I cut out the D windows and temporarily attached them to the fuse. I made patterns and cut out aluminum fairings, using the bead roller I rolled the edge over about 1/4 inch from the edge, these were set in place and drilled. I then made the front D window fairing by bending it to shape and drilling it in place. I bolted on the brake plates and put on the covers for the gear springs. I cut out the baggage floor carpet and the front carpet and sewed on edging fabric. I secured the baggage carpet with screws to the floor along with baggage tie down hooks. Next I installed the seat pins and handles.
So as far as progress I cut out the D windows and temporarily attached them to the fuse. I made patterns and cut out aluminum fairings, using the bead roller I rolled the edge over about 1/4 inch from the edge, these were set in place and drilled. I then made the front D window fairing by bending it to shape and drilling it in place. I bolted on the brake plates and put on the covers for the gear springs. I cut out the baggage floor carpet and the front carpet and sewed on edging fabric. I secured the baggage carpet with screws to the floor along with baggage tie down hooks. Next I installed the seat pins and handles.
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Here are some pics of the fabric area. Remember glue top on one side pull tight, glue other top side, cut at side of U channel going back to rear starting point, wrap under, pull up to top longeron, notch for side U channel and glue, then work out big wrinkle on the side at the rear starting point of wing root by pulling and gluing fabric to bottom longeron. hope these help
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That explanation helps to visualize how you do that part, I think I have it now!
What I do to edge carpet with Vinyl is I sew a 1" piece of vinyl with it face down on the top side of the carpet 1/4" from the edge, then I flip the vinyl over the stitch and under the carpet, then sew from the top again just to the inside of the vinyl, this will hide the stitch, and you wont have the cut line or stitch showing. the second stitch will disappear into the carpet weave.
What I do to edge carpet with Vinyl is I sew a 1" piece of vinyl with it face down on the top side of the carpet 1/4" from the edge, then I flip the vinyl over the stitch and under the carpet, then sew from the top again just to the inside of the vinyl, this will hide the stitch, and you wont have the cut line or stitch showing. the second stitch will disappear into the carpet weave.
I'm glad these are being used; I'm the guy who drew up the design. I designed them for my yet to be finished 2+2 build. Wings are covered and close to paint, fuselage on the gear and close to covering. It's great to see other War builds getting close. The drawings are on my webpage along with other drawings for Wag aircraft. marty2plus2.com
Marty57
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Ester Alaska
Man that is a nice clean build! Really like the extra storage boxes in rear, good pic of the gear and mounts.
Have one question tho, i see some zip ties on the fuse tubes, i was always told not to use zip ties on any structural points unless wrapped with some kind of protection between ziptie and the mounting point, the zip tie in a vibration situation like on a plane acts like a sawblade over time and can cut into the mounting point.
Is that a true thing??
Thanks Bucky.
Have one question tho, i see some zip ties on the fuse tubes, i was always told not to use zip ties on any structural points unless wrapped with some kind of protection between ziptie and the mounting point, the zip tie in a vibration situation like on a plane acts like a sawblade over time and can cut into the mounting point.
Is that a true thing??
Thanks Bucky.
